Temat: coastal wave - Katalog OPAC zbiorów

Skocz do pozycji: 1.

Tytuł:: Measurement and analysis of coastal waves along the north sea area of China
Autorzy:: Sun, S.
Li, H.
Sun, H.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/259794.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2016
Wydawca:: Politechnika Gdańska. Wydział Inżynierii Mechanicznej i Okrętownictwa
Tematy:: coastal wave
measurement
buoy
spectral analysis
Opis:: Taking advantage of coastal wave environment to carry out scaled ship model test is an effective testing technology for ship performance. In this paper, the method of spectral analysis is adopted to calculate the significant wave height, period, wave spectrum and some other parameters of some places along the North Sea area of China. The measured wave spectrum and the ocean spectrum are handled into non-dimensional form to evaluate their similarity. The influence of wind direction and tide on coastal waves was analyzed. And the results indicate that the coastal wave spectrum is similar to the ocean spectrum under some specific conditions.
Źródło:: Polish Maritime Research; 2016, 3; 72-78
1233-2585
Pojawia się w:: Polish Maritime Research
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 2.

Tytuł:: Shallow-water wave energy dissipation in a multi-bar coastal zone
Autorzy:: Pruszak, Z.
Szmytkiewicz, P.
Ostrowski, R.
Skaja, M.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47959.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2008
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: coastal region
energy dissipation
surf zone
Baltic Sea
wave parameter
wave motion
wave transformation
shallow water
coastal zone
offshore wave
Opis:: The paper presents the results of studies of wave transformation on a multi-bar cross-shore profile of the southern Baltic Sea. The field investigations of wave motion were carried out using an offshore wave buoy and string wave gauges at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station, Lubiatowo (Poland). These experimental results were used to validate statistical relationships between characteristic wave parameters in the coastal region and to assess wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. Asimple model for calculating the residual nearshore wave energy is proposed and tested versus the data collected in situ.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2008, 50, 1; 43-58
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 3.

Tytuł:: Climate of long internal waves and resuspension on the coastal shelf
Autorzy:: Bogucki, D.J.
Redekopp, L.G.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47452.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2008
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: boundary layer
internal wave
turbulence
resuspension
long internal wave
internal solitary wave
coastal shelf
instability
climate
coastal area
Opis:: Observations of the shelf environment rarely associate internal solitary waves (ISWs) with the impact of their passage. An experiment observed during the Coastal Mixing and Optics 1996( CMO ’96), a sequence of long internal waves on a coastal shelf is reported, including both mode-1 and mode-2 waves, together with evidence related to the interaction of propagating ISWs and the benthic boundary layer. The observed ISW dynamics is shown to present a repetitive pattern or ‘climate cycle’. The ISW-associated benthic signature described here occurs frequently (at least once a day) in the CMO ’96coastal area and suggests that ISWs under calm, summer-like conditions may have a decisive influence on the fate of near-bottom pollutants or biological processes in shelf regions.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2008, 50, 1; 5-21
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 4.

Tytuł:: Analysis of Structural and Non-Structural Disaster Mitigation Due to Erosion in the Timbulsloko Village, Demak – Central Java
Autorzy:: Sugianto, Denny Nugroho
Widiaratih, Rikha
Widada, Sugeng
Suripin, -
Handayani, Elinna Putri
Cahyaningtyas, Putri
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2027833.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2022
Wydawca:: Polskie Towarzystwo Inżynierii Ekologicznej
Tematy:: wave damping
permeable breakwater
coastal erosion
Timbulsloko Village
coastal vulnerability analysis
coastal vulnerability index
Opis:: Timbulsloko is a village on the coast of Sayung District, Demak Regency that is severely affected by coastal erosion. The coastal erosion in the Timbulsloko Village is mainly caused by the removal of mangrove areas, which has eliminated the function of the natural breakwater for the coast of the Timbulsloko Village. This study aimed to mitigate the coastal erosion in the form of structural and non-structural protection. Structurally (physically), mitigation is conducted by protecting the coastal area with the application of environmentally friendly coastal protection technology in the form of a Permeable breakwater with a Hybrid Engineering structure. Furthermore, the effectiveness of two different structure segments in damping waves from September 2020 – March 2021 will be measured. In contrast, non-structurally, mitigation is conducted in a non-physical way by analyzing the Coastal Vulnerability Index of Timbulsloko Village based on the parameters of Coastal Typology, Average Tidal Range, Significant Wave Height, Coastal Slope, Coastal Geomorphology, Sea Level Rises, and Shoreline Displacement using the CVI method. The effectiveness of the permeable structure’s wave damping is determined by the initial wave height and transmission wave height measured by the ultrasonic sensor. On the basis of segment differences, the Permeable Breakwater Segment 2 with a distance between bamboo of 0.25 m has better effectiveness than a Permeable Breakwater Segment 1 with a distance between bamboo of 0.5 m. The results of the Coastal Vulnerability Analysis show that the Timbulsloko Village is vulnerable to coastal disasters, especially coastal erosion.
Źródło:: Journal of Ecological Engineering; 2022, 23, 2; 246-254
2299-8993
Pojawia się w:: Journal of Ecological Engineering
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 5.

Tytuł:: Nonlinear ship wake waves as a model of rogue waves and a source of danger to the coastal environment: a review
Autorzy:: Soomere, T.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48354.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2006
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: Sopot
nonlinear ship
wave
extreme wave
shallow water wave
conference
Baltic Sea
marine ecosystem
coastal environment
ship traffic
speed ship
coastal area
Opis:: A substantial part of the energy of wake waves from high-speed ships sailing in shallow water is concentrated in nonlinear components which at times have a solitonic nature. Recent results of investigations into solitonic wave interactions within the framework of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation and their implications for rogue wave theory are reviewed. A surface elevation four times as high as the counterparts occurs if the properties of the interacting waves are specifically balanced. The slope of the water surface may increase eightfold. The resulting structure may persist for a long time. Nonlinear wake components may exert a considerable influence on the marine ecosystem in coastal areas.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2006, 48, S
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 6.

Tytuł:: Modelling longshore sediment transport under asymmetric waves
Autorzy:: Ostrowski, R.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/49027.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2006
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: coastal zone
hydrodynamic condition
sandy sediment
wave-current interaction
sediment transport
wave asymmetry
Opis:: Two wave theories are applied in calculations of longshore sediment transport rates: the second Stokes approximation and the cnoidal theory. These approaches are used to model sand motion in nearshore locations beyond and within the surf zone. Wave-current interaction in the nearbed layer and bed shear stresses are solved using a momentum integral method, whereas sediment transport is described by a three-layer model encompassing bedload, contact load and suspended load. Computational results for asymmetric waves are compared with the results obtained using linear wave theory and the conventional sediment transport models of Bailard (1981), Bijker (1971) and Van Rijn (1993).
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2006, 48, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 7.

Tytuł:: Longshore sediment transport at Golden Sands (Bulgaria)
Autorzy:: Nikolov, H.
Trifonova, E.
Cherneva, Z.
Ostrowski, R.
Skaja, M.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48714.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2006
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: coastal zone
wave refraction
wave diffraction
Black Sea
sandy beach
sediment transport
Golden Sands
Bulgaria
Opis:: The paper presents the results of studies on the qualitative and quantitative features of the littoral drift at Golden Sands (Bulgaria), carried out jointly by Polish and Bulgarian researchers. The mathematical modelling of physical coastal processes took wave transformation (wave diffraction and refraction; the effects of shoaling and wave breaking) and longshore sediment transport into account. The computations were carried out for the mean statistical annual wave climate, determined on the basis of IO BAS wave data, simulated using the WAM method from long-term Black Sea wind data. The results of sediment transport computations clearly show that its direction off the Golden Sands shore is from north to south.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2006, 48, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 8.

Tytuł:: Experimental study of hydraulic response of smooth submerged breakwaters to irregular waves
Autorzy:: Mahmoudof, S.M.
Hajivalie, F.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2078821.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2021
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: submerged breakwater
irregular wave
experimental study
transmission
reflection
coastal area
Opis:: This paper presents the results of a laboratory experiment on transmission, reflection, and dissipation of irregular waves over smooth impermeable submerged breakwaters. Experiments included 75 JONSWAP-based irregular waves with five different wave characteristics generated at three water depths in a 2D wave flume. The investigated breakwater sections were three rectangular breakwaters with different widths, a toothed rectangular breakwater, and a trapezoidal breakwater with a slope of 1:2. A new comprehensive dimensionless parameter (β) was proposed representing both wave hydrodynamic and breakwater geometry characteristics. This parameter could be employed as a suitable descriptive option to make an accurate estimate of the hydraulic performances of submerged breakwaters. The β parameter is composed of four conventional simple dimensionless variables. However, the results revealed that the relative submergence depth significantly affects the hydraulic responses of submerged breakwaters. The transmission, reflection and dissipation of waves show a logarithmic growth, a logarithmic reduction, and a quadratic decreasing trend against the increasing of β parameter, respectively. The verifications of results revealed the high efficiency of β parameter for data reported by Carevic et al. (2013) with R2 = 0.88 and high agreement with predictions made by Van der Meer et al. (2005) formulation with R2 = 0.93.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2021, 63, 4; 448-462
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 9.

Tytuł:: Groundwater flow due to a nonlinear wave set-up on a permeable beach
Autorzy:: Przyborska, A.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47606.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2014
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: pore pressure
groundwater circulation
nonlinear wave
water flow
beach sand
shallow water
wave dynamics
coastal zone
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2014, 56, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 10.

Tytuł:: Modelling nearshore hydrodynamics and circulation under the impact of high waves at the coast of Varkiza in Saronic-Athens Gulf
Autorzy:: Belibassakis, K.A.
Karathanasi, F.E.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47934.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2017
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: sediment transport
shoreline
modelling
hydrodynamics
Saronic Gulf
coastal zone
wind
wave
Opis:: A plethora of physical parameters, such as hydro-, litho- and morpho-dynamic char- acteristics, are essential for understanding the response of coastal systems to intense sea states in terms of sediment transport and shoreline evolution. Nowadays, numerical models are extensively applied to meet the above needs and support coastal planning and management. In the present work, a 2DH dynamic modelling system is used for simulating the hydrodynamic and meteorological/ oceanographic characteristics of the Saronic Gulf, in order to examine circulation patterns and predict sediment transport phenomena under high wave conditions at the coast of Varkiza, a sandy beach in the southern Attica, Greece. Time series of wind and wave data were used as input at the open boundaries of the model domain while the model was calibrated and validated through (linear and directional) statistical measures with respect to in situ wave measurements, since there was lack of hydrodynamic data at the site of interest.The simulation period of the model was between January 3 and February 19, 2013, with consecutive high waves in-between. The good agreement of the numerical results from the wave and hydrodynamic model with in situ measurements confirmed the suitability of the model for the support of sediment transport rates at Varkiza coastal segment. Model results reveal that there is a counter-clockwise water circulation during high waves that contribute to the erosion of the examined beach, which is also confirmed by independent field measurements.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2017, 59, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 11.

Tytuł:: An integrated wave modelling framework for extreme and rare events for climate change in coastal areas – the case of Rethymno, Crete
Autorzy:: Tsoukala, V.K.
Chondros, M.
Kapelonis, Z.G.
Martzikos, N.
Lykou, A.
Belibassakis, K.
Makropoulos, C.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48719.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2016
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: coastal area
climate change
Crete
flooding
wave
storm
modelling
numerical model
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2016, 58, 2
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 12.

Tytuł:: Some probabilistic properties of surf parameter
Autorzy:: Myrhaug, D.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2079192.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2020
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: probabilistic property
surf parameter
wave statistics
continental shelf
coastal zone
Norway
Opis:: This article is supplementary to Myrhaug (2018) and presents some probabilistic properties of the surf parameter for individual waves and the spectral surf parameter for sea states by using distributions based on data from the Norwegian continental shelf. The average statistical features given by the mean value and the standard deviation of the two surf parameters are considered. Examples of results for the surf parameter are provided for a Phillips spectrum and a family of JONSWAP spectra for wind sea, and for sea states using a joint frequency table of significant wave height and mean zero-crossing wave period for combined wind sea and swell. The spectral surf parameter results are obtained by using a joint distribution of significant wave height and spectral surf parameter, and the mean statistical properties are given for joint frequency tables of significant wave height and mean zero-crossing wave period from three deep water locations on the Norwegian continental shelf. It is also demonstrated how the results can be applied to calculate the vertical wave runup elevation for breaking waves.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2020, 62, 3; 395-401
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 13.

Tytuł:: Influence of the climatic variations in the wind waves parameters on the alongshore sediment transport
Autorzy:: Divinsky, B.V.
Kosyan, R.D.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2079275.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2020
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: climate variability
wind wave
coastal zone
sediment transport
numerical modelling
Black Sea
Opis:: The purpose of this work was to analyze the influence of climatic variability of wind waves and swell parameters in the coastal zone on the sediment transport and to assess the contribution of the swell to the formation of alongshore fluxes. The object of research is the Anapa bay-bar (the Black Sea). Mathematical modeling has shown that in the Anapa bay-bar area the average annual wind waves and swell powers have significant interannual variability. For the period from 1979 to 2017, in the southern part of the bay-bar, there was a statistically significant decrease in the share of swell in the alongshore transport, directed from NW to SE, in the central part – an increase in the contribution of swell to the total sediment flow from SE to NW, in the northern part – probable increase in flows to NW and decrease – to SE. Such a dynamic is consistent, in general, with experimental observations of the processes of erosion and accumulation of beach-forming material along the Anapa bay-bar coastline. A separate description of the bottom sediment fluxes under the influence of wind waves and swell made it possible to explain the fluctuations of the coastline over a climatic period.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2020, 62, 2; 190-199
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 14.

Tytuł:: Local Wave Energy Dissipation and Morphological Beach Characteristics along a Northernmost Segment of the Polish Coast
Autorzy:: Różyński, G.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241376.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2018
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:: coastal morphology
wave energy dissipation
equilibrium profiles
data-driven modelling
signal processing
Opis:: This paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the Polish coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) done in 2005 and 2011. Spaced every 500 m, they cover beach topography from dune/cliff crests to a seabed depth of about 15 m. They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract the monotonic component of beach topography and to perform a straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipation rates. Three characteristic dissipation patterns were identified: one associated with large nearshore bars and 2–3 zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beach profile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. An attempt was then made to interpret these types of wave energy dissipation in terms of local coastal morphological features and the underlying sedimentary characteristics.
Źródło:: Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2018, 65, 2; 91-108
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:: Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 15.

Tytuł:: Long period oscillations in the longshore current on a sandy, barred coast investigated with singular spectrum analysis
Autorzy:: Kaczmarek, J.
Rozynski, G.
Pruszak, Z.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47837.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2005
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: beach process
nearshore region
longshore current
coastal process
infragravity wave
singular spectrum analysis
Opis:: The presence of infragravity waves in nearshore regions can be sought in the records of both water levels and wave-driven longshore currents. For this reason, time series of such currents in close proximity to the shoreline were analysed using Singular Spectrum Analysis (SSA). Simultaneously, the results obtained with this method were confronted with the output of Discrete Wavelet Transform (DWT), which had previously been applied to this data. The records of longshore currents were collected on a daily basis during field experiments in the autumns of 2002 and 2003 with sampling rates of 3 Hz and 0.5 Hz. This produced a large data set that allowed for the use of an advanced signal processing technique, capable of extracting patterns characteristic of low-, medium- and high-frequency bands. It provided similar evidence to that produced by DWT for the existence of infragravity waves along a dissipative coast with multiple bars. The study also demonstrated the utility of SSA for studies on coastal hydrodynamics. It also showed up the better user-friendliness of DWT in terms of pattern extraction and interpretation. On the other hand, SSA demonstrated a higher precision of pattern extraction once the DWT output was known, which is a manifestation of the synergy of the two methods when applied jointly.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2005, 47, 1
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 16.

Tytuł:: Driving forces of sandy sediment transport beyond the surf zone
Autorzy:: Stella, M.
Ostrowski, R.
Szmytkiewicz, P.
Kapinski, J.
Marcinkowski, T.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47878.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2019
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: sandy sediment
sediment transport
surf zone
wave-current interaction
roughness
coastal zone
Baltic Sea
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2019, 61, 1
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 17.

Tytuł:: Variability and correlations of shoreline and dunes on the Southern Baltic coast (CRS Lubiatowo, Poland)
Autorzy:: Pruszak, Z.
Ostrowski, R.
Schonhofer, J.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48165.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2011
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: variability
correlation
shoreline
dune
Baltic coast
Lubiatowo
Polska
field investigation
coastal zone
wave energy
Opis:: The paper analyses the results of field investigations into the evolution of the shoreline and dune toe positions in a multi-bar, dissipative coastal zone. The correlations between the changes in the shoreline and the dune toe range from −0.4 to 0.8. It is most often the case that the dune toe is stable while the shoreline moves. Consistent cross-shore migration is slightly more likely to happen than the divergent or convergent movements of both lines. Shoreline retreat and advance attain respective rates of 0.7 m day−1 and 0.4 m day−1. Deep-water wave energy of about 50 kJ m−1 constitutes the boundary between shore accumulation and erosion.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2011, 53, 1
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 18.

Tytuł:: Combined impact of summer heat waves and coastal upwelling in the Baltic Sea
Autorzy:: Suursaar, U.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2079092.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2020
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: global warming
heat wave
coastal upwelling
water temperature
salinity
satellite image
Finland Gulf
Baltic Sea
Opis:: Under warming climates, heat waves (HWs) have occurred in increasing intensity in Europe. Also, public interest towards HWs has considerably increased over the last decades. The paper discusses the manifestations of the summer 2014 HW and simultaneously occurring coastal upwelling (CU) events in the Gulf of Finland. Caused by an anticyclonic weather pattern and persisting easterly winds, CUs evolved along the southern coast of the Gulf in four episodes from June to August. Based on data from coastal weather stations, 115 days-long measurements with a Recording Doppler Current Profiler (RDCP) oceanographic complex and sea surface temperature (SST) satellite images, the partly opposing impacts of these events are analysed. Occurring on the background of a marine HW (up to 26°C), the CU-forced SST variations reached about 20 degrees. At the 10 m deep RDCP mooring location, a drop from 21.5 to 2.9°C occurred within 60 hours. Salinity varied between 3.6 and 6.2 and an alongshore coastal jet was observed; the statistically preferred westerly current frequently flowed against the wind. Locally, the cooling effect of the CUs occasionally mitigated the overheating effects by the HWs both in the sea and on the marine-land boundary. However, in the elongated channel-like Gulf of Finland, upwelling at one coast is usually paired with downwelling at the opposite coast, and simultaneously or subsequently occurring HWs and CUs effectively contribute to heat transfer from the atmosphere to the water mass. Rising extremes of HWs and rapid variations by CUs may put the ecosystems under increasing stress.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2020, 62, 4PA; 511-524
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 19.

Tytuł:: Effect of mangrove forest structures on wave attenuation in coastal Vietnam
Autorzy:: Bao, T.Q.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48094.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2011
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: brackish water
coastal region
forest structure
mangrove forest
marine environment
river mouth
saline water
storm
terrestrial environment
Vietnam
water quality
wave
wave attenuation
Opis:: This paper analyses wave attenuation in coastal mangrove forests in Vietnam. Data from 32 mangrove plots of six species located in 2 coastal regions are used for this study. In each plot, mangrove forest structures and wave height at different cross-shore distances are measured. Wave height closely relates to cross- shore distances. 92 exponential regression equations are highly significant with R2 >0.95 and P val. <0.001. Wave height reduction depends on initial wave height, cross-shore distances, and mangrove forest structures. This relationship is used to define minimum mangrove band width for coastal protection from waves in Vietnam.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2011, 53, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 20.

Tytuł:: The impact of fast ferry traffic on underwater optics and sediment resuspension
Autorzy:: Erm, A.
Soomere, T.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48167.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2006
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: fast ferry wake
marine optics
Sopot
sea water
conference
wave measurement
Baltic Sea
Tallinn Bay
coastal area
Opis:: Wake waves produced by fast ferries bring about significant changes in the optical parameters of sea water in the c. 1 m thick near-bottom layer of the coastal areas of Tallinn Bay. The greatest of these changes occur at relatively small depths, but the duration of the influence increases with increasing depth. Rough quantitative estimates suggest that the overall influence of fast ferry traffic in Tallinn Bay may result in an annual loss of the order of several hundred litres of fine sediments from each metre of the coastline.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2006, 48, S
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 21.

Tytuł:: Waves, currents and sea level variations along the Letipea - Sillamäe coastal section of the Southern Gulf of Finland
Autorzy:: Suursaar, U.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48913.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2010
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: wave
variation
hydrodynamic condition
measurement
Doppler current prolifer
calibration
semi-empirical hindcast
water parameter
upwelling
coastal jet
climate change
Baltic Sea
Letipea-Sillamae coastal section
Finland Gulf
Opis:: Variations in the hydrodynamic conditions were studied on the basis of 336 days of measurements with a Doppler current profiler. With wave data as a calibration reference, a semi-empirical hindcast of wave parameters is presented in the fetch- limited near-shore area for the period 1966–2008. A resultant 4–6 cm s−1 westward current dominated along the coast. Occasional fast sub-surface westward currents under modest wind forcing, as well as asymmetrical vertical profiles for westward and eastward currents indicated the influence of upwelling-related baroclinic coastal jets. The average frequency of upwelling was estimated at 17%; some of the events were identified in near-homothermic winter conditions on the basis of salinity and multi-layer flow records. While the mean sea level trend at Narva-Jõesuu roughly approximated the global estimates for 1899–2009, the annual maximum sea level increase was 5–8 mm yr−1. Both mean and maximum wave heights declined as a result of decreasing winds from the north.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2010, 52, 3; 391-416
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 22.

Tytuł:: Report on the development of the Vistula River plume in the coastal waters of the Gulf of Gdańsk during the May 2010 flood
Autorzy:: Zajaczkowski, M.
Darecki, M.
Szczucinski, W.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47599.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2010
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: Vistula River
river plume
flood
flood wave
Gdansk Gulf
coastal water
hydrological condition
water discharge
suspended matter
concentration
Opis:: The hydrological conditions, suspended matter concentrations and vertical par- ticulate matter flux were measured as the River Vistula flood wave (maximum discharge) was flowing into the southern part of the Gulf of Gdańsk on 26 May 2010. Extending offshore for several tens of kilometres, the river plume was well stratified, with the upper layer flowing away from the shore and the near-bottom water coastwards.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2010, 52, 2; 311-317
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 23.

Tytuł:: A quasi phase-resolving model of net sand transport and short-term cross-shore profile evolution
Autorzy:: Ostrowski, R.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48565.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2003
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: coastal zone
hydrodynamics
wave-current condition
cross-shore profile
Baltic Sea
evolution
modelling
sand transport
sediment transport
hydrodynamic impact
Opis:: A way of modelling of the net sediment transport rate on a cross-shore profile and the resulting sea bed changes is presented. In the sediment transport computations, a three-layer model with a description of the bedload based on the water-soil mixture theory by Kaczmarek& Ostrowski (1998, 2002) is used. The modelling system is applied to wave-current conditions variable over the cross-shore profile, and determined using the computational frameworkof Szmytkiewicz (2002a, b). The sediment transport module incorporates the asymmetric wave approaches as proposed by Ostrowski (2002). Model simulations have been produced for uniformly sloped and multi-bar initial cross-shore profiles. Some of the model results are compared with the IBW PAN (Institute of Hydroengineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences) field data collected at the Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2003, 45, 2
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 24.

Tytuł:: Development of the sandy coast: Hydrodynamic and morphodynamic conditions (on the example of the Eastern Gulf of Finland)
Autorzy:: Divinsky, B.V.
Ryabchuk, D.V.
Kosyan, R.D.
Sergeev, A.Y.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2078924.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2021
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: sandy coast
coastal zone
climate change
hydrodynamic condition
morphodynamic condition
sea level
surface wave
sediment transport
numerical modelling
Finland Gulf
Opis:: Forecasting the coastal zone development under possible climatic changes and technogenic impact is an extremely important task. This forecasting is based on our understanding of the mechanism of the hydrodynamic processes impact on the coastal zone. The goal of this work is to describe the hydrodynamic conditions (currents, sea level, surface waves) of coastal waters and to assess the influence of hydrodynamic parameters on the general dynamics of the beach. The object of this study is a part of the southern coastal zone of the Gulf of Finland (Baltic Sea). The method of research is a full-scale experiment and mathematical modeling. The initial data for the analysis are climatic characteristics of the hydrodynamic regime of the sea (velocity and direction of currents, sea level, integral parameters of wind seas and swell), as well as interannual variations in the position of the coastline in the region of the Izhora village in the eastern part of the Gulf of Finland. Interannual variations in hydrodynamic parameters and volumes of bottom material transported under the influence of wind seas and swell were estimated. Main conclusion: swell waves determine the general background in the patterns of the bottom material transport, and the contribution of wind seas is in the formation of beach properties, namely, the accumulation or decrease of beach material
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2021, 63, 2; 214-226
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 25.

Tytuł:: Impact of nonlinear standing waves underneath a deck
Autorzy:: Majewski, D.
Sulisz, W.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/1849771.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2020
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Czytelnia Czasopism PAN
Tematy:: uderzenie falii
impuls ciśnienia
budowla brzegowa
budowla morska
fala wodna
metoda elementów brzegowych
model numeryczny
wave impact
impact pressure
coastal structure
offshore structure
water wave
boundary element method
numerical model
Opis:: A theoretical approach was applied to investigate the impact of nonlinear standing waves underneath a horizontal deck. A solution was achieved by applying a boundary element method. The model was applied to predict impact pressure underneath a deck. The results show that the wave impact is a very complex momentary process. The influence of initial boundary conditions, wave parameters and deck clearance on impact pressure are analysed. The analysis shows that purely sinusoidal waves of very small amplitude may cause an impact pressure several orders of magnitude higher than a pressure arising from typical applications of a linear wave theory. The analysis shows that all these non-intuitive outcomes arise from the complexity of a wave impact process and its enormous sensitivity to initial conditions what indicates serious difficulties in a reliable prediction of a wave impact for complex wave fields or other structures. Laboratory experiments were conducted to validate theoretical results.
Zbadano proces uderzenia nieliniowych, stojących fal wodnych w spód poziomego pokładu. Wykorzystano podejście teoretyczne, którego rozwiązanie opiera się na Metodzie Elementów Brzegowych. Za pomocą modelu wyznaczono ciśnienia generowane uderzeniem fal wodnych. Wyniki wskazują na to, że proces jest bardzo złożony i ma charakter impulsowy. Analizowano wpływ początkowych warunków brzegowych, parametrów fali oraz wysokości zawieszenia pokładu nad powierzchnią spokoju na generowane ciśnienia. Wyniki pokazują, że nawet fale sinusoidalne, o małej amplitudzie mogą wywołać ciśnienia kilkukrotnie większe niż ciśnienia wynikające z typowych zastosowań teorii liniowej falowania. Pokazują również, że często nieintuicyjne wnioski wynikają ze złożoności procesu uderzenia fali i jego dużej czułości na początkowe warunki brzegowe. Wskazuje to na poważne trudności w wiarygodnym modelowaniu procesu uderzenia dla złożonych pól falowych oraz skomplikowanych układów geometrycznych budowli. Przeprowadzono również pomiary laboratoryjne w celu uzyskania danych do walidacji modelu numerycznego. Opracowany model zapewnia wyniki z dokładnością umożliwiającą zastosowanie go w zadaniach inżynierskich.
Źródło:: Archives of Civil Engineering; 2020, 66, 4; 79-96
1230-2945
Pojawia się w:: Archives of Civil Engineering
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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