Temat: coastal wave - Katalog OPAC zbiorów

Skocz do pozycji: 1.

Tytuł:: Measurement and analysis of coastal waves along the north sea area of China
Autorzy:: Sun, S.
Li, H.
Sun, H.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/259794.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2016
Wydawca:: Politechnika Gdańska. Wydział Inżynierii Mechanicznej i Okrętownictwa
Tematy:: coastal wave
measurement
buoy
spectral analysis
Opis:: Taking advantage of coastal wave environment to carry out scaled ship model test is an effective testing technology for ship performance. In this paper, the method of spectral analysis is adopted to calculate the significant wave height, period, wave spectrum and some other parameters of some places along the North Sea area of China. The measured wave spectrum and the ocean spectrum are handled into non-dimensional form to evaluate their similarity. The influence of wind direction and tide on coastal waves was analyzed. And the results indicate that the coastal wave spectrum is similar to the ocean spectrum under some specific conditions.
Źródło:: Polish Maritime Research; 2016, 3; 72-78
1233-2585
Pojawia się w:: Polish Maritime Research
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 2.

Tytuł:: Shallow-water wave energy dissipation in a multi-bar coastal zone
Autorzy:: Pruszak, Z.
Szmytkiewicz, P.
Ostrowski, R.
Skaja, M.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47959.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2008
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: coastal region
energy dissipation
surf zone
Baltic Sea
wave parameter
wave motion
wave transformation
shallow water
coastal zone
offshore wave
Opis:: The paper presents the results of studies of wave transformation on a multi-bar cross-shore profile of the southern Baltic Sea. The field investigations of wave motion were carried out using an offshore wave buoy and string wave gauges at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station, Lubiatowo (Poland). These experimental results were used to validate statistical relationships between characteristic wave parameters in the coastal region and to assess wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. Asimple model for calculating the residual nearshore wave energy is proposed and tested versus the data collected in situ.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2008, 50, 1; 43-58
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 3.

Tytuł:: Climate of long internal waves and resuspension on the coastal shelf
Autorzy:: Bogucki, D.J.
Redekopp, L.G.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47452.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2008
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: boundary layer
internal wave
turbulence
resuspension
long internal wave
internal solitary wave
coastal shelf
instability
climate
coastal area
Opis:: Observations of the shelf environment rarely associate internal solitary waves (ISWs) with the impact of their passage. An experiment observed during the Coastal Mixing and Optics 1996( CMO ’96), a sequence of long internal waves on a coastal shelf is reported, including both mode-1 and mode-2 waves, together with evidence related to the interaction of propagating ISWs and the benthic boundary layer. The observed ISW dynamics is shown to present a repetitive pattern or ‘climate cycle’. The ISW-associated benthic signature described here occurs frequently (at least once a day) in the CMO ’96coastal area and suggests that ISWs under calm, summer-like conditions may have a decisive influence on the fate of near-bottom pollutants or biological processes in shelf regions.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2008, 50, 1; 5-21
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 4.

Tytuł:: Analysis of Structural and Non-Structural Disaster Mitigation Due to Erosion in the Timbulsloko Village, Demak – Central Java
Autorzy:: Sugianto, Denny Nugroho
Widiaratih, Rikha
Widada, Sugeng
Suripin, -
Handayani, Elinna Putri
Cahyaningtyas, Putri
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2027833.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2022
Wydawca:: Polskie Towarzystwo Inżynierii Ekologicznej
Tematy:: wave damping
permeable breakwater
coastal erosion
Timbulsloko Village
coastal vulnerability analysis
coastal vulnerability index
Opis:: Timbulsloko is a village on the coast of Sayung District, Demak Regency that is severely affected by coastal erosion. The coastal erosion in the Timbulsloko Village is mainly caused by the removal of mangrove areas, which has eliminated the function of the natural breakwater for the coast of the Timbulsloko Village. This study aimed to mitigate the coastal erosion in the form of structural and non-structural protection. Structurally (physically), mitigation is conducted by protecting the coastal area with the application of environmentally friendly coastal protection technology in the form of a Permeable breakwater with a Hybrid Engineering structure. Furthermore, the effectiveness of two different structure segments in damping waves from September 2020 – March 2021 will be measured. In contrast, non-structurally, mitigation is conducted in a non-physical way by analyzing the Coastal Vulnerability Index of Timbulsloko Village based on the parameters of Coastal Typology, Average Tidal Range, Significant Wave Height, Coastal Slope, Coastal Geomorphology, Sea Level Rises, and Shoreline Displacement using the CVI method. The effectiveness of the permeable structure’s wave damping is determined by the initial wave height and transmission wave height measured by the ultrasonic sensor. On the basis of segment differences, the Permeable Breakwater Segment 2 with a distance between bamboo of 0.25 m has better effectiveness than a Permeable Breakwater Segment 1 with a distance between bamboo of 0.5 m. The results of the Coastal Vulnerability Analysis show that the Timbulsloko Village is vulnerable to coastal disasters, especially coastal erosion.
Źródło:: Journal of Ecological Engineering; 2022, 23, 2; 246-254
2299-8993
Pojawia się w:: Journal of Ecological Engineering
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 5.

Tytuł:: Nonlinear ship wake waves as a model of rogue waves and a source of danger to the coastal environment: a review
Autorzy:: Soomere, T.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48354.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2006
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: Sopot
nonlinear ship
wave
extreme wave
shallow water wave
conference
Baltic Sea
marine ecosystem
coastal environment
ship traffic
speed ship
coastal area
Opis:: A substantial part of the energy of wake waves from high-speed ships sailing in shallow water is concentrated in nonlinear components which at times have a solitonic nature. Recent results of investigations into solitonic wave interactions within the framework of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation and their implications for rogue wave theory are reviewed. A surface elevation four times as high as the counterparts occurs if the properties of the interacting waves are specifically balanced. The slope of the water surface may increase eightfold. The resulting structure may persist for a long time. Nonlinear wake components may exert a considerable influence on the marine ecosystem in coastal areas.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2006, 48, S
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 6.

Tytuł:: Modelling longshore sediment transport under asymmetric waves
Autorzy:: Ostrowski, R.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/49027.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2006
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: coastal zone
hydrodynamic condition
sandy sediment
wave-current interaction
sediment transport
wave asymmetry
Opis:: Two wave theories are applied in calculations of longshore sediment transport rates: the second Stokes approximation and the cnoidal theory. These approaches are used to model sand motion in nearshore locations beyond and within the surf zone. Wave-current interaction in the nearbed layer and bed shear stresses are solved using a momentum integral method, whereas sediment transport is described by a three-layer model encompassing bedload, contact load and suspended load. Computational results for asymmetric waves are compared with the results obtained using linear wave theory and the conventional sediment transport models of Bailard (1981), Bijker (1971) and Van Rijn (1993).
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2006, 48, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 7.

Tytuł:: Longshore sediment transport at Golden Sands (Bulgaria)
Autorzy:: Nikolov, H.
Trifonova, E.
Cherneva, Z.
Ostrowski, R.
Skaja, M.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48714.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2006
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: coastal zone
wave refraction
wave diffraction
Black Sea
sandy beach
sediment transport
Golden Sands
Bulgaria
Opis:: The paper presents the results of studies on the qualitative and quantitative features of the littoral drift at Golden Sands (Bulgaria), carried out jointly by Polish and Bulgarian researchers. The mathematical modelling of physical coastal processes took wave transformation (wave diffraction and refraction; the effects of shoaling and wave breaking) and longshore sediment transport into account. The computations were carried out for the mean statistical annual wave climate, determined on the basis of IO BAS wave data, simulated using the WAM method from long-term Black Sea wind data. The results of sediment transport computations clearly show that its direction off the Golden Sands shore is from north to south.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2006, 48, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 8.

Tytuł:: Experimental study of hydraulic response of smooth submerged breakwaters to irregular waves
Autorzy:: Mahmoudof, S.M.
Hajivalie, F.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2078821.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2021
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: submerged breakwater
irregular wave
experimental study
transmission
reflection
coastal area
Opis:: This paper presents the results of a laboratory experiment on transmission, reflection, and dissipation of irregular waves over smooth impermeable submerged breakwaters. Experiments included 75 JONSWAP-based irregular waves with five different wave characteristics generated at three water depths in a 2D wave flume. The investigated breakwater sections were three rectangular breakwaters with different widths, a toothed rectangular breakwater, and a trapezoidal breakwater with a slope of 1:2. A new comprehensive dimensionless parameter (β) was proposed representing both wave hydrodynamic and breakwater geometry characteristics. This parameter could be employed as a suitable descriptive option to make an accurate estimate of the hydraulic performances of submerged breakwaters. The β parameter is composed of four conventional simple dimensionless variables. However, the results revealed that the relative submergence depth significantly affects the hydraulic responses of submerged breakwaters. The transmission, reflection and dissipation of waves show a logarithmic growth, a logarithmic reduction, and a quadratic decreasing trend against the increasing of β parameter, respectively. The verifications of results revealed the high efficiency of β parameter for data reported by Carevic et al. (2013) with R2 = 0.88 and high agreement with predictions made by Van der Meer et al. (2005) formulation with R2 = 0.93.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2021, 63, 4; 448-462
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 9.

Tytuł:: Groundwater flow due to a nonlinear wave set-up on a permeable beach
Autorzy:: Przyborska, A.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47606.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2014
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: pore pressure
groundwater circulation
nonlinear wave
water flow
beach sand
shallow water
wave dynamics
coastal zone
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2014, 56, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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Skocz do pozycji: 10.

Tytuł:: Modelling nearshore hydrodynamics and circulation under the impact of high waves at the coast of Varkiza in Saronic-Athens Gulf
Autorzy:: Belibassakis, K.A.
Karathanasi, F.E.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47934.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2017
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: sediment transport
shoreline
modelling
hydrodynamics
Saronic Gulf
coastal zone
wind
wave
Opis:: A plethora of physical parameters, such as hydro-, litho- and morpho-dynamic char- acteristics, are essential for understanding the response of coastal systems to intense sea states in terms of sediment transport and shoreline evolution. Nowadays, numerical models are extensively applied to meet the above needs and support coastal planning and management. In the present work, a 2DH dynamic modelling system is used for simulating the hydrodynamic and meteorological/ oceanographic characteristics of the Saronic Gulf, in order to examine circulation patterns and predict sediment transport phenomena under high wave conditions at the coast of Varkiza, a sandy beach in the southern Attica, Greece. Time series of wind and wave data were used as input at the open boundaries of the model domain while the model was calibrated and validated through (linear and directional) statistical measures with respect to in situ wave measurements, since there was lack of hydrodynamic data at the site of interest.The simulation period of the model was between January 3 and February 19, 2013, with consecutive high waves in-between. The good agreement of the numerical results from the wave and hydrodynamic model with in situ measurements confirmed the suitability of the model for the support of sediment transport rates at Varkiza coastal segment. Model results reveal that there is a counter-clockwise water circulation during high waves that contribute to the erosion of the examined beach, which is also confirmed by independent field measurements.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2017, 59, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

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