Temat: swash zone - Katalog OPAC zbiorów

Skocz do pozycji: 1.

Tytuł:: Two-dimensional modelling of wave motion in shallow-water areas
Autorzy:: Kapiński, J.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241315.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2004
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:: swash zone
shallow water
wave transformation
Lagrangian approach
two-dimensional model
Opis:: A new mathematical model for prediction of a two-dimensional wave motion in shallow water is presented herein. It can be applied to investigate shoaling, diffraction, refraction, breaking, bottom friction and wave run-up on a beach, as well as mass transport and orbital motion. The model also includes an oblique wave approach to the shore and irregular bottom topography. Such engineering constructions as seawalls, breakwaters and groins are simulated numerically. Simple results of computations, shown in graphic form, indicate possible practical applications of the model.
Źródło:: Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2004, 51, 1; 3-24
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:: Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

Artykuł

Skocz do pozycji: 2.

Tytuł:: Motion of water and sediment due to non-breaking waves in the swash zone
Autorzy:: Kapinski, J.
Ostrowski, R.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48514.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2012
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: water motion
sediment
non-breaking wave
flow velocity
sediment transport
spatial variability
sandy shore
swash zone
Baltic Sea
shear stress
Opis:: A long wave run-up theory is applied to the modelling of wave-induced flow velocities, sediment transport rates and bottom changes in a swash zone. First, the properties of the water tongue motion and the resulting lithodynamic response are analysed theoretically. Next, an attempt is made to run the model for the natural conditions encountered on the southern Baltic Sea coast. The Lagrangian swash velocities are used to determine the Eulerian phase-resolved bed shear stresses with a momentum integral method, after which the motion of sand is described by the use of a two-layer model, comprising bedload and nearbed suspended load. Seabed evolution is then found from the spatial variability of the net sediment transport rates. The results presented are limited to cases of the small-amplitude waves that seem to be responsible for accretion on beaches.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2012, 54, 2
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

Artykuł

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