- Tytuł:
- Wave-Induced Sediment Motion Beyond the Surf Zone: Case Study of Lubiatowo (Poland)
- Autorzy:
-
Cerkowniak, G. R.
Ostrowski, R.
Stella, M. - Powiązania:
- https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241331.pdf
- Data publikacji:
- 2015
- Wydawca:
- Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
- Tematy:
-
cross-shore seabed profile
offshore wave climate
wave transformation
nearbed flow velocities
bed shear stress
sediment motion
depth of closure - Opis:
- The paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of a natural sandy shore located near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (Poland, the south Baltic Sea). The study site displays multi-bar cross-shore profiles that intensively dissipate wave energy, mostly by breaking. The main field data comprise offshore wave parameters and three cross-shore bathymetric profiles. Waveinduced nearbed velocities and bed shear stresses are theoretically modelled for weak, moderate, strong and extreme storm conditions to determine sediment motion regimes at various locations on the seaward boundary of the surf zone. The paper contains a discussion on the depth of closure concept, according to which the offshore range of sea bottom changes can be determined by the extreme seasonal deep-water wave parameters.
- Źródło:
-
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2015, 62, 1-2; 27-39
1231-3726 - Pojawia się w:
- Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
- Dostawca treści:
- Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł