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Tytuł:
A quasi phase-resolving model of net sand transport and short-term cross-shore profile evolution
Autorzy:
Ostrowski, R.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48565.pdf
Data publikacji:
2003
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
coastal zone
hydrodynamics
wave-current condition
cross-shore profile
Baltic Sea
evolution
modelling
sand transport
sediment transport
hydrodynamic impact
Opis:
A way of modelling of the net sediment transport rate on a cross-shore profile and the resulting sea bed changes is presented. In the sediment transport computations, a three-layer model with a description of the bedload based on the water-soil mixture theory by Kaczmarek& Ostrowski (1998, 2002) is used. The modelling system is applied to wave-current conditions variable over the cross-shore profile, and determined using the computational frameworkof Szmytkiewicz (2002a, b). The sediment transport module incorporates the asymmetric wave approaches as proposed by Ostrowski (2002). Model simulations have been produced for uniformly sloped and multi-bar initial cross-shore profiles. Some of the model results are compared with the IBW PAN (Institute of Hydroengineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences) field data collected at the Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2003, 45, 2
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Long period oscillations in the longshore current on a sandy, barred coast investigated with singular spectrum analysis
Autorzy:
Kaczmarek, J.
Rozynski, G.
Pruszak, Z.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47837.pdf
Data publikacji:
2005
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
beach process
nearshore region
longshore current
coastal process
infragravity wave
singular spectrum analysis
Opis:
The presence of infragravity waves in nearshore regions can be sought in the records of both water levels and wave-driven longshore currents. For this reason, time series of such currents in close proximity to the shoreline were analysed using Singular Spectrum Analysis (SSA). Simultaneously, the results obtained with this method were confronted with the output of Discrete Wavelet Transform (DWT), which had previously been applied to this data. The records of longshore currents were collected on a daily basis during field experiments in the autumns of 2002 and 2003 with sampling rates of 3 Hz and 0.5 Hz. This produced a large data set that allowed for the use of an advanced signal processing technique, capable of extracting patterns characteristic of low-, medium- and high-frequency bands. It provided similar evidence to that produced by DWT for the existence of infragravity waves along a dissipative coast with multiple bars. The study also demonstrated the utility of SSA for studies on coastal hydrodynamics. It also showed up the better user-friendliness of DWT in terms of pattern extraction and interpretation. On the other hand, SSA demonstrated a higher precision of pattern extraction once the DWT output was known, which is a manifestation of the synergy of the two methods when applied jointly.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2005, 47, 1
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Longshore sediment transport at Golden Sands (Bulgaria)
Autorzy:
Nikolov, H.
Trifonova, E.
Cherneva, Z.
Ostrowski, R.
Skaja, M.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48714.pdf
Data publikacji:
2006
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
coastal zone
wave refraction
wave diffraction
Black Sea
sandy beach
sediment transport
Golden Sands
Bulgaria
Opis:
The paper presents the results of studies on the qualitative and quantitative features of the littoral drift at Golden Sands (Bulgaria), carried out jointly by Polish and Bulgarian researchers. The mathematical modelling of physical coastal processes took wave transformation (wave diffraction and refraction; the effects of shoaling and wave breaking) and longshore sediment transport into account. The computations were carried out for the mean statistical annual wave climate, determined on the basis of IO BAS wave data, simulated using the WAM method from long-term Black Sea wind data. The results of sediment transport computations clearly show that its direction off the Golden Sands shore is from north to south.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2006, 48, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Modelling longshore sediment transport under asymmetric waves
Autorzy:
Ostrowski, R.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/49027.pdf
Data publikacji:
2006
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
coastal zone
hydrodynamic condition
sandy sediment
wave-current interaction
sediment transport
wave asymmetry
Opis:
Two wave theories are applied in calculations of longshore sediment transport rates: the second Stokes approximation and the cnoidal theory. These approaches are used to model sand motion in nearshore locations beyond and within the surf zone. Wave-current interaction in the nearbed layer and bed shear stresses are solved using a momentum integral method, whereas sediment transport is described by a three-layer model encompassing bedload, contact load and suspended load. Computational results for asymmetric waves are compared with the results obtained using linear wave theory and the conventional sediment transport models of Bailard (1981), Bijker (1971) and Van Rijn (1993).
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2006, 48, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Nonlinear ship wake waves as a model of rogue waves and a source of danger to the coastal environment: a review
Autorzy:
Soomere, T.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48354.pdf
Data publikacji:
2006
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
Sopot
nonlinear ship
wave
extreme wave
shallow water wave
conference
Baltic Sea
marine ecosystem
coastal environment
ship traffic
speed ship
coastal area
Opis:
A substantial part of the energy of wake waves from high-speed ships sailing in shallow water is concentrated in nonlinear components which at times have a solitonic nature. Recent results of investigations into solitonic wave interactions within the framework of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation and their implications for rogue wave theory are reviewed. A surface elevation four times as high as the counterparts occurs if the properties of the interacting waves are specifically balanced. The slope of the water surface may increase eightfold. The resulting structure may persist for a long time. Nonlinear wake components may exert a considerable influence on the marine ecosystem in coastal areas.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2006, 48, S
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
The impact of fast ferry traffic on underwater optics and sediment resuspension
Autorzy:
Erm, A.
Soomere, T.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48167.pdf
Data publikacji:
2006
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
fast ferry wake
marine optics
Sopot
sea water
conference
wave measurement
Baltic Sea
Tallinn Bay
coastal area
Opis:
Wake waves produced by fast ferries bring about significant changes in the optical parameters of sea water in the c. 1 m thick near-bottom layer of the coastal areas of Tallinn Bay. The greatest of these changes occur at relatively small depths, but the duration of the influence increases with increasing depth. Rough quantitative estimates suggest that the overall influence of fast ferry traffic in Tallinn Bay may result in an annual loss of the order of several hundred litres of fine sediments from each metre of the coastline.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2006, 48, S
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Climate of long internal waves and resuspension on the coastal shelf
Autorzy:
Bogucki, D.J.
Redekopp, L.G.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47452.pdf
Data publikacji:
2008
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
boundary layer
internal wave
turbulence
resuspension
long internal wave
internal solitary wave
coastal shelf
instability
climate
coastal area
Opis:
Observations of the shelf environment rarely associate internal solitary waves (ISWs) with the impact of their passage. An experiment observed during the Coastal Mixing and Optics 1996( CMO ’96), a sequence of long internal waves on a coastal shelf is reported, including both mode-1 and mode-2 waves, together with evidence related to the interaction of propagating ISWs and the benthic boundary layer. The observed ISW dynamics is shown to present a repetitive pattern or ‘climate cycle’. The ISW-associated benthic signature described here occurs frequently (at least once a day) in the CMO ’96coastal area and suggests that ISWs under calm, summer-like conditions may have a decisive influence on the fate of near-bottom pollutants or biological processes in shelf regions.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2008, 50, 1; 5-21
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Shallow-water wave energy dissipation in a multi-bar coastal zone
Autorzy:
Pruszak, Z.
Szmytkiewicz, P.
Ostrowski, R.
Skaja, M.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47959.pdf
Data publikacji:
2008
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
coastal region
energy dissipation
surf zone
Baltic Sea
wave parameter
wave motion
wave transformation
shallow water
coastal zone
offshore wave
Opis:
The paper presents the results of studies of wave transformation on a multi-bar cross-shore profile of the southern Baltic Sea. The field investigations of wave motion were carried out using an offshore wave buoy and string wave gauges at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station, Lubiatowo (Poland). These experimental results were used to validate statistical relationships between characteristic wave parameters in the coastal region and to assess wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. Asimple model for calculating the residual nearshore wave energy is proposed and tested versus the data collected in situ.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2008, 50, 1; 43-58
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Report on the development of the Vistula River plume in the coastal waters of the Gulf of Gdańsk during the May 2010 flood
Autorzy:
Zajaczkowski, M.
Darecki, M.
Szczucinski, W.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47599.pdf
Data publikacji:
2010
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
Vistula River
river plume
flood
flood wave
Gdansk Gulf
coastal water
hydrological condition
water discharge
suspended matter
concentration
Opis:
The hydrological conditions, suspended matter concentrations and vertical par- ticulate matter flux were measured as the River Vistula flood wave (maximum discharge) was flowing into the southern part of the Gulf of Gdańsk on 26 May 2010. Extending offshore for several tens of kilometres, the river plume was well stratified, with the upper layer flowing away from the shore and the near-bottom water coastwards.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2010, 52, 2; 311-317
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Waves, currents and sea level variations along the Letipea - Sillamäe coastal section of the Southern Gulf of Finland
Autorzy:
Suursaar, U.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48913.pdf
Data publikacji:
2010
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
wave
variation
hydrodynamic condition
measurement
Doppler current prolifer
calibration
semi-empirical hindcast
water parameter
upwelling
coastal jet
climate change
Baltic Sea
Letipea-Sillamae coastal section
Finland Gulf
Opis:
Variations in the hydrodynamic conditions were studied on the basis of 336 days of measurements with a Doppler current profiler. With wave data as a calibration reference, a semi-empirical hindcast of wave parameters is presented in the fetch- limited near-shore area for the period 1966–2008. A resultant 4–6 cm s−1 westward current dominated along the coast. Occasional fast sub-surface westward currents under modest wind forcing, as well as asymmetrical vertical profiles for westward and eastward currents indicated the influence of upwelling-related baroclinic coastal jets. The average frequency of upwelling was estimated at 17%; some of the events were identified in near-homothermic winter conditions on the basis of salinity and multi-layer flow records. While the mean sea level trend at Narva-Jõesuu roughly approximated the global estimates for 1899–2009, the annual maximum sea level increase was 5–8 mm yr−1. Both mean and maximum wave heights declined as a result of decreasing winds from the north.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2010, 52, 3; 391-416
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Effect of mangrove forest structures on wave attenuation in coastal Vietnam
Autorzy:
Bao, T.Q.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48094.pdf
Data publikacji:
2011
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
brackish water
coastal region
forest structure
mangrove forest
marine environment
river mouth
saline water
storm
terrestrial environment
Vietnam
water quality
wave
wave attenuation
Opis:
This paper analyses wave attenuation in coastal mangrove forests in Vietnam. Data from 32 mangrove plots of six species located in 2 coastal regions are used for this study. In each plot, mangrove forest structures and wave height at different cross-shore distances are measured. Wave height closely relates to cross- shore distances. 92 exponential regression equations are highly significant with R2 >0.95 and P val. <0.001. Wave height reduction depends on initial wave height, cross-shore distances, and mangrove forest structures. This relationship is used to define minimum mangrove band width for coastal protection from waves in Vietnam.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2011, 53, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Variability and correlations of shoreline and dunes on the Southern Baltic coast (CRS Lubiatowo, Poland)
Autorzy:
Pruszak, Z.
Ostrowski, R.
Schonhofer, J.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48165.pdf
Data publikacji:
2011
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
variability
correlation
shoreline
dune
Baltic coast
Lubiatowo
Polska
field investigation
coastal zone
wave energy
Opis:
The paper analyses the results of field investigations into the evolution of the shoreline and dune toe positions in a multi-bar, dissipative coastal zone. The correlations between the changes in the shoreline and the dune toe range from −0.4 to 0.8. It is most often the case that the dune toe is stable while the shoreline moves. Consistent cross-shore migration is slightly more likely to happen than the divergent or convergent movements of both lines. Shoreline retreat and advance attain respective rates of 0.7 m day−1 and 0.4 m day−1. Deep-water wave energy of about 50 kJ m−1 constitutes the boundary between shore accumulation and erosion.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2011, 53, 1
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Groundwater flow due to a nonlinear wave set-up on a permeable beach
Autorzy:
Przyborska, A.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47606.pdf
Data publikacji:
2014
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
pore pressure
groundwater circulation
nonlinear wave
water flow
beach sand
shallow water
wave dynamics
coastal zone
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2014, 56, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
An integrated wave modelling framework for extreme and rare events for climate change in coastal areas – the case of Rethymno, Crete
Autorzy:
Tsoukala, V.K.
Chondros, M.
Kapelonis, Z.G.
Martzikos, N.
Lykou, A.
Belibassakis, K.
Makropoulos, C.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48719.pdf
Data publikacji:
2016
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
coastal area
climate change
Crete
flooding
wave
storm
modelling
numerical model
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2016, 58, 2
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Measurement and analysis of coastal waves along the north sea area of China
Autorzy:
Sun, S.
Li, H.
Sun, H.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/259794.pdf
Data publikacji:
2016
Wydawca:
Politechnika Gdańska. Wydział Inżynierii Mechanicznej i Okrętownictwa
Tematy:
coastal wave
measurement
buoy
spectral analysis
Opis:
Taking advantage of coastal wave environment to carry out scaled ship model test is an effective testing technology for ship performance. In this paper, the method of spectral analysis is adopted to calculate the significant wave height, period, wave spectrum and some other parameters of some places along the North Sea area of China. The measured wave spectrum and the ocean spectrum are handled into non-dimensional form to evaluate their similarity. The influence of wind direction and tide on coastal waves was analyzed. And the results indicate that the coastal wave spectrum is similar to the ocean spectrum under some specific conditions.
Źródło:
Polish Maritime Research; 2016, 3; 72-78
1233-2585
Pojawia się w:
Polish Maritime Research
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Wyświetlanie 1-15 z 25

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