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Wyświetlanie 1-15 z 25
Tytuł:
A quasi phase-resolving model of net sand transport and short-term cross-shore profile evolution
Autorzy:
Ostrowski, R.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48565.pdf
Data publikacji:
2003
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
coastal zone
hydrodynamics
wave-current condition
cross-shore profile
Baltic Sea
evolution
modelling
sand transport
sediment transport
hydrodynamic impact
Opis:
A way of modelling of the net sediment transport rate on a cross-shore profile and the resulting sea bed changes is presented. In the sediment transport computations, a three-layer model with a description of the bedload based on the water-soil mixture theory by Kaczmarek& Ostrowski (1998, 2002) is used. The modelling system is applied to wave-current conditions variable over the cross-shore profile, and determined using the computational frameworkof Szmytkiewicz (2002a, b). The sediment transport module incorporates the asymmetric wave approaches as proposed by Ostrowski (2002). Model simulations have been produced for uniformly sloped and multi-bar initial cross-shore profiles. Some of the model results are compared with the IBW PAN (Institute of Hydroengineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences) field data collected at the Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2003, 45, 2
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
An integrated wave modelling framework for extreme and rare events for climate change in coastal areas – the case of Rethymno, Crete
Autorzy:
Tsoukala, V.K.
Chondros, M.
Kapelonis, Z.G.
Martzikos, N.
Lykou, A.
Belibassakis, K.
Makropoulos, C.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48719.pdf
Data publikacji:
2016
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
coastal area
climate change
Crete
flooding
wave
storm
modelling
numerical model
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2016, 58, 2
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Analysis of Structural and Non-Structural Disaster Mitigation Due to Erosion in the Timbulsloko Village, Demak – Central Java
Autorzy:
Sugianto, Denny Nugroho
Widiaratih, Rikha
Widada, Sugeng
Suripin, -
Handayani, Elinna Putri
Cahyaningtyas, Putri
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2027833.pdf
Data publikacji:
2022
Wydawca:
Polskie Towarzystwo Inżynierii Ekologicznej
Tematy:
wave damping
permeable breakwater
coastal erosion
Timbulsloko Village
coastal vulnerability analysis
coastal vulnerability index
Opis:
Timbulsloko is a village on the coast of Sayung District, Demak Regency that is severely affected by coastal erosion. The coastal erosion in the Timbulsloko Village is mainly caused by the removal of mangrove areas, which has eliminated the function of the natural breakwater for the coast of the Timbulsloko Village. This study aimed to mitigate the coastal erosion in the form of structural and non-structural protection. Structurally (physically), mitigation is conducted by protecting the coastal area with the application of environmentally friendly coastal protection technology in the form of a Permeable breakwater with a Hybrid Engineering structure. Furthermore, the effectiveness of two different structure segments in damping waves from September 2020 – March 2021 will be measured. In contrast, non-structurally, mitigation is conducted in a non-physical way by analyzing the Coastal Vulnerability Index of Timbulsloko Village based on the parameters of Coastal Typology, Average Tidal Range, Significant Wave Height, Coastal Slope, Coastal Geomorphology, Sea Level Rises, and Shoreline Displacement using the CVI method. The effectiveness of the permeable structure’s wave damping is determined by the initial wave height and transmission wave height measured by the ultrasonic sensor. On the basis of segment differences, the Permeable Breakwater Segment 2 with a distance between bamboo of 0.25 m has better effectiveness than a Permeable Breakwater Segment 1 with a distance between bamboo of 0.5 m. The results of the Coastal Vulnerability Analysis show that the Timbulsloko Village is vulnerable to coastal disasters, especially coastal erosion.
Źródło:
Journal of Ecological Engineering; 2022, 23, 2; 246-254
2299-8993
Pojawia się w:
Journal of Ecological Engineering
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Climate of long internal waves and resuspension on the coastal shelf
Autorzy:
Bogucki, D.J.
Redekopp, L.G.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47452.pdf
Data publikacji:
2008
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
boundary layer
internal wave
turbulence
resuspension
long internal wave
internal solitary wave
coastal shelf
instability
climate
coastal area
Opis:
Observations of the shelf environment rarely associate internal solitary waves (ISWs) with the impact of their passage. An experiment observed during the Coastal Mixing and Optics 1996( CMO ’96), a sequence of long internal waves on a coastal shelf is reported, including both mode-1 and mode-2 waves, together with evidence related to the interaction of propagating ISWs and the benthic boundary layer. The observed ISW dynamics is shown to present a repetitive pattern or ‘climate cycle’. The ISW-associated benthic signature described here occurs frequently (at least once a day) in the CMO ’96coastal area and suggests that ISWs under calm, summer-like conditions may have a decisive influence on the fate of near-bottom pollutants or biological processes in shelf regions.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2008, 50, 1; 5-21
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Combined impact of summer heat waves and coastal upwelling in the Baltic Sea
Autorzy:
Suursaar, U.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2079092.pdf
Data publikacji:
2020
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
global warming
heat wave
coastal upwelling
water temperature
salinity
satellite image
Finland Gulf
Baltic Sea
Opis:
Under warming climates, heat waves (HWs) have occurred in increasing intensity in Europe. Also, public interest towards HWs has considerably increased over the last decades. The paper discusses the manifestations of the summer 2014 HW and simultaneously occurring coastal upwelling (CU) events in the Gulf of Finland. Caused by an anticyclonic weather pattern and persisting easterly winds, CUs evolved along the southern coast of the Gulf in four episodes from June to August. Based on data from coastal weather stations, 115 days-long measurements with a Recording Doppler Current Profiler (RDCP) oceanographic complex and sea surface temperature (SST) satellite images, the partly opposing impacts of these events are analysed. Occurring on the background of a marine HW (up to 26°C), the CU-forced SST variations reached about 20 degrees. At the 10 m deep RDCP mooring location, a drop from 21.5 to 2.9°C occurred within 60 hours. Salinity varied between 3.6 and 6.2 and an alongshore coastal jet was observed; the statistically preferred westerly current frequently flowed against the wind. Locally, the cooling effect of the CUs occasionally mitigated the overheating effects by the HWs both in the sea and on the marine-land boundary. However, in the elongated channel-like Gulf of Finland, upwelling at one coast is usually paired with downwelling at the opposite coast, and simultaneously or subsequently occurring HWs and CUs effectively contribute to heat transfer from the atmosphere to the water mass. Rising extremes of HWs and rapid variations by CUs may put the ecosystems under increasing stress.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2020, 62, 4PA; 511-524
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Development of the sandy coast: Hydrodynamic and morphodynamic conditions (on the example of the Eastern Gulf of Finland)
Autorzy:
Divinsky, B.V.
Ryabchuk, D.V.
Kosyan, R.D.
Sergeev, A.Y.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2078924.pdf
Data publikacji:
2021
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
sandy coast
coastal zone
climate change
hydrodynamic condition
morphodynamic condition
sea level
surface wave
sediment transport
numerical modelling
Finland Gulf
Opis:
Forecasting the coastal zone development under possible climatic changes and technogenic impact is an extremely important task. This forecasting is based on our understanding of the mechanism of the hydrodynamic processes impact on the coastal zone. The goal of this work is to describe the hydrodynamic conditions (currents, sea level, surface waves) of coastal waters and to assess the influence of hydrodynamic parameters on the general dynamics of the beach. The object of this study is a part of the southern coastal zone of the Gulf of Finland (Baltic Sea). The method of research is a full-scale experiment and mathematical modeling. The initial data for the analysis are climatic characteristics of the hydrodynamic regime of the sea (velocity and direction of currents, sea level, integral parameters of wind seas and swell), as well as interannual variations in the position of the coastline in the region of the Izhora village in the eastern part of the Gulf of Finland. Interannual variations in hydrodynamic parameters and volumes of bottom material transported under the influence of wind seas and swell were estimated. Main conclusion: swell waves determine the general background in the patterns of the bottom material transport, and the contribution of wind seas is in the formation of beach properties, namely, the accumulation or decrease of beach material
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2021, 63, 2; 214-226
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Driving forces of sandy sediment transport beyond the surf zone
Autorzy:
Stella, M.
Ostrowski, R.
Szmytkiewicz, P.
Kapinski, J.
Marcinkowski, T.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47878.pdf
Data publikacji:
2019
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
sandy sediment
sediment transport
surf zone
wave-current interaction
roughness
coastal zone
Baltic Sea
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2019, 61, 1
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Effect of mangrove forest structures on wave attenuation in coastal Vietnam
Autorzy:
Bao, T.Q.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48094.pdf
Data publikacji:
2011
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
brackish water
coastal region
forest structure
mangrove forest
marine environment
river mouth
saline water
storm
terrestrial environment
Vietnam
water quality
wave
wave attenuation
Opis:
This paper analyses wave attenuation in coastal mangrove forests in Vietnam. Data from 32 mangrove plots of six species located in 2 coastal regions are used for this study. In each plot, mangrove forest structures and wave height at different cross-shore distances are measured. Wave height closely relates to cross- shore distances. 92 exponential regression equations are highly significant with R2 >0.95 and P val. <0.001. Wave height reduction depends on initial wave height, cross-shore distances, and mangrove forest structures. This relationship is used to define minimum mangrove band width for coastal protection from waves in Vietnam.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2011, 53, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Experimental study of hydraulic response of smooth submerged breakwaters to irregular waves
Autorzy:
Mahmoudof, S.M.
Hajivalie, F.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2078821.pdf
Data publikacji:
2021
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
submerged breakwater
irregular wave
experimental study
transmission
reflection
coastal area
Opis:
This paper presents the results of a laboratory experiment on transmission, reflection, and dissipation of irregular waves over smooth impermeable submerged breakwaters. Experiments included 75 JONSWAP-based irregular waves with five different wave characteristics generated at three water depths in a 2D wave flume. The investigated breakwater sections were three rectangular breakwaters with different widths, a toothed rectangular breakwater, and a trapezoidal breakwater with a slope of 1:2. A new comprehensive dimensionless parameter (β) was proposed representing both wave hydrodynamic and breakwater geometry characteristics. This parameter could be employed as a suitable descriptive option to make an accurate estimate of the hydraulic performances of submerged breakwaters. The β parameter is composed of four conventional simple dimensionless variables. However, the results revealed that the relative submergence depth significantly affects the hydraulic responses of submerged breakwaters. The transmission, reflection and dissipation of waves show a logarithmic growth, a logarithmic reduction, and a quadratic decreasing trend against the increasing of β parameter, respectively. The verifications of results revealed the high efficiency of β parameter for data reported by Carevic et al. (2013) with R2 = 0.88 and high agreement with predictions made by Van der Meer et al. (2005) formulation with R2 = 0.93.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2021, 63, 4; 448-462
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Groundwater flow due to a nonlinear wave set-up on a permeable beach
Autorzy:
Przyborska, A.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47606.pdf
Data publikacji:
2014
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
pore pressure
groundwater circulation
nonlinear wave
water flow
beach sand
shallow water
wave dynamics
coastal zone
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2014, 56, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Impact of nonlinear standing waves underneath a deck
Autorzy:
Majewski, D.
Sulisz, W.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/1849771.pdf
Data publikacji:
2020
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Czytelnia Czasopism PAN
Tematy:
uderzenie falii
impuls ciśnienia
budowla brzegowa
budowla morska
fala wodna
metoda elementów brzegowych
model numeryczny
wave impact
impact pressure
coastal structure
offshore structure
water wave
boundary element method
numerical model
Opis:
A theoretical approach was applied to investigate the impact of nonlinear standing waves underneath a horizontal deck. A solution was achieved by applying a boundary element method. The model was applied to predict impact pressure underneath a deck. The results show that the wave impact is a very complex momentary process. The influence of initial boundary conditions, wave parameters and deck clearance on impact pressure are analysed. The analysis shows that purely sinusoidal waves of very small amplitude may cause an impact pressure several orders of magnitude higher than a pressure arising from typical applications of a linear wave theory. The analysis shows that all these non-intuitive outcomes arise from the complexity of a wave impact process and its enormous sensitivity to initial conditions what indicates serious difficulties in a reliable prediction of a wave impact for complex wave fields or other structures. Laboratory experiments were conducted to validate theoretical results.
Zbadano proces uderzenia nieliniowych, stojących fal wodnych w spód poziomego pokładu. Wykorzystano podejście teoretyczne, którego rozwiązanie opiera się na Metodzie Elementów Brzegowych. Za pomocą modelu wyznaczono ciśnienia generowane uderzeniem fal wodnych. Wyniki wskazują na to, że proces jest bardzo złożony i ma charakter impulsowy. Analizowano wpływ początkowych warunków brzegowych, parametrów fali oraz wysokości zawieszenia pokładu nad powierzchnią spokoju na generowane ciśnienia. Wyniki pokazują, że nawet fale sinusoidalne, o małej amplitudzie mogą wywołać ciśnienia kilkukrotnie większe niż ciśnienia wynikające z typowych zastosowań teorii liniowej falowania. Pokazują również, że często nieintuicyjne wnioski wynikają ze złożoności procesu uderzenia fali i jego dużej czułości na początkowe warunki brzegowe. Wskazuje to na poważne trudności w wiarygodnym modelowaniu procesu uderzenia dla złożonych pól falowych oraz skomplikowanych układów geometrycznych budowli. Przeprowadzono również pomiary laboratoryjne w celu uzyskania danych do walidacji modelu numerycznego. Opracowany model zapewnia wyniki z dokładnością umożliwiającą zastosowanie go w zadaniach inżynierskich.
Źródło:
Archives of Civil Engineering; 2020, 66, 4; 79-96
1230-2945
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Civil Engineering
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Influence of the climatic variations in the wind waves parameters on the alongshore sediment transport
Autorzy:
Divinsky, B.V.
Kosyan, R.D.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2079275.pdf
Data publikacji:
2020
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
climate variability
wind wave
coastal zone
sediment transport
numerical modelling
Black Sea
Opis:
The purpose of this work was to analyze the influence of climatic variability of wind waves and swell parameters in the coastal zone on the sediment transport and to assess the contribution of the swell to the formation of alongshore fluxes. The object of research is the Anapa bay-bar (the Black Sea). Mathematical modeling has shown that in the Anapa bay-bar area the average annual wind waves and swell powers have significant interannual variability. For the period from 1979 to 2017, in the southern part of the bay-bar, there was a statistically significant decrease in the share of swell in the alongshore transport, directed from NW to SE, in the central part – an increase in the contribution of swell to the total sediment flow from SE to NW, in the northern part – probable increase in flows to NW and decrease – to SE. Such a dynamic is consistent, in general, with experimental observations of the processes of erosion and accumulation of beach-forming material along the Anapa bay-bar coastline. A separate description of the bottom sediment fluxes under the influence of wind waves and swell made it possible to explain the fluctuations of the coastline over a climatic period.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2020, 62, 2; 190-199
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Local Wave Energy Dissipation and Morphological Beach Characteristics along a Northernmost Segment of the Polish Coast
Autorzy:
Różyński, G.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241376.pdf
Data publikacji:
2018
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
coastal morphology
wave energy dissipation
equilibrium profiles
data-driven modelling
signal processing
Opis:
This paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the Polish coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) done in 2005 and 2011. Spaced every 500 m, they cover beach topography from dune/cliff crests to a seabed depth of about 15 m. They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract the monotonic component of beach topography and to perform a straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipation rates. Three characteristic dissipation patterns were identified: one associated with large nearshore bars and 2–3 zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beach profile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. An attempt was then made to interpret these types of wave energy dissipation in terms of local coastal morphological features and the underlying sedimentary characteristics.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2018, 65, 2; 91-108
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Long period oscillations in the longshore current on a sandy, barred coast investigated with singular spectrum analysis
Autorzy:
Kaczmarek, J.
Rozynski, G.
Pruszak, Z.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47837.pdf
Data publikacji:
2005
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
beach process
nearshore region
longshore current
coastal process
infragravity wave
singular spectrum analysis
Opis:
The presence of infragravity waves in nearshore regions can be sought in the records of both water levels and wave-driven longshore currents. For this reason, time series of such currents in close proximity to the shoreline were analysed using Singular Spectrum Analysis (SSA). Simultaneously, the results obtained with this method were confronted with the output of Discrete Wavelet Transform (DWT), which had previously been applied to this data. The records of longshore currents were collected on a daily basis during field experiments in the autumns of 2002 and 2003 with sampling rates of 3 Hz and 0.5 Hz. This produced a large data set that allowed for the use of an advanced signal processing technique, capable of extracting patterns characteristic of low-, medium- and high-frequency bands. It provided similar evidence to that produced by DWT for the existence of infragravity waves along a dissipative coast with multiple bars. The study also demonstrated the utility of SSA for studies on coastal hydrodynamics. It also showed up the better user-friendliness of DWT in terms of pattern extraction and interpretation. On the other hand, SSA demonstrated a higher precision of pattern extraction once the DWT output was known, which is a manifestation of the synergy of the two methods when applied jointly.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2005, 47, 1
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Longshore sediment transport at Golden Sands (Bulgaria)
Autorzy:
Nikolov, H.
Trifonova, E.
Cherneva, Z.
Ostrowski, R.
Skaja, M.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48714.pdf
Data publikacji:
2006
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
coastal zone
wave refraction
wave diffraction
Black Sea
sandy beach
sediment transport
Golden Sands
Bulgaria
Opis:
The paper presents the results of studies on the qualitative and quantitative features of the littoral drift at Golden Sands (Bulgaria), carried out jointly by Polish and Bulgarian researchers. The mathematical modelling of physical coastal processes took wave transformation (wave diffraction and refraction; the effects of shoaling and wave breaking) and longshore sediment transport into account. The computations were carried out for the mean statistical annual wave climate, determined on the basis of IO BAS wave data, simulated using the WAM method from long-term Black Sea wind data. The results of sediment transport computations clearly show that its direction off the Golden Sands shore is from north to south.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2006, 48, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
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