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    Wyświetlanie 1-3 z 3
    Tytuł:
    Variability and correlations of shoreline and dunes on the Southern Baltic coast (CRS Lubiatowo, Poland)
    Autorzy:
    Pruszak, Z.
    Ostrowski, R.
    Schonhofer, J.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48165.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2011
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    variability
    correlation
    shoreline
    dune
    Baltic coast
    Lubiatowo
    Polska
    field investigation
    coastal zone
    wave energy
    Opis:
    The paper analyses the results of field investigations into the evolution of the shoreline and dune toe positions in a multi-bar, dissipative coastal zone. The correlations between the changes in the shoreline and the dune toe range from −0.4 to 0.8. It is most often the case that the dune toe is stable while the shoreline moves. Consistent cross-shore migration is slightly more likely to happen than the divergent or convergent movements of both lines. Shoreline retreat and advance attain respective rates of 0.7 m day−1 and 0.4 m day−1. Deep-water wave energy of about 50 kJ m−1 constitutes the boundary between shore accumulation and erosion.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2011, 53, 1
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Calculation of Dune Profile Changes Generated by Hurricane: Preliminary Results
    Autorzy:
    Szmytkiewicz, P.
    Szmytkiewicz, M.
    Schönhofer, J.
    Morawski, J.
    Malicki, J.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241504.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2018
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
    Tematy:
    coastal zone
    dune
    erosion
    Opis:
    The paper presents the main theoretical concepts related to methods of calculating the erosion rate for sandy dunes on natural coasts, namely, the beach equilibrium profile and incident waves. To illustrate calculations of dune erosion in the vicinity of the Coastal Research Station (CRS) in Lubiatowo, the Xbeach model (an incident wave model) was used. The calculations were carried out for hydrological and hydrodynamic conditions that accompanied Hurricane Ksawery (December 6–8, 2013). The results of the calculations were compared with the measured data. A satisfactory agreement was obtained between the predicted and measured results.
    Źródło:
    Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2018, 65, 3; 221-239
    1231-3726
    Pojawia się w:
    Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Rip currents in the non-tidal surf zone with sandbars: numerical analysis versus field measurements
    Autorzy:
    Dudkowska, A.
    Borun, A.
    Malicki, J.
    Schonhofer, J.
    Gic-Grusza, G.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2079185.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2020
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    coastal zone
    non-tidal surf zone
    hydromorphological condition
    bathymetry
    hydroengineering
    numerical analysis
    Opis:
    Rip currents, which are local seaward-directed jets with their mean velocity exceeding 0.5 m/s, have been a subject of many studies since the 1940s. They are an important part of the nearshore current system and in specific hydro- and litomorphological conditions can cause changes in the local bathymetry. Thus, a detailed analysis of the characteristics of this phenomenon is crucial both to public safety and hydroengineering. The main purpose of this research is to determine the wave conditions of a multi-bar non-tidal coastal zone environment in which rip currents can occur. In this study, we focus on a multi-bar non-tidal coastal zone environment located in the Southern Baltic Sea, where rip current driving forces are mostly reduced to the wind and wind-induced waves. This is one of very few comprehensive approaches to exploring the possibility of rip currents occurrence in such environmental conditions. During two field expeditions, there were carried out in situ measurements exploiting two GPS drifters. The results indicate the formation of irregular non-longshore flows (related to rip currents) in the studied area. To answer the question under what conditions the formation of rip currents takes place, an extended modelling experiment was performed. Deep-water wave conditions typical of the studied area were chosen due to bouy measurements. The total of 589 combinations of the significant wave height, the mean period and wave direction values were examined as test cases. The coastal flow in the area and tracks of virtual drifters were simulated by XBeach numerical model for all test cases. As a result, 589 nearshore currents fields were generated and two scenarios were indicated: a regular circulation (dominated by the longshore current) which is typical of this area (547 cases), and flows with rip current features (42 cases). This reflects the results of the field measurements carried out. It can be concluded that the wave direction is a dominating factor in the formation of rip currents. Namely the flows of this type may occur in the area of interest when the direction of a deep water wave is almost perpendicular to the shore. Such situations occur rarely. They cover about 7% of the days of the year. Thus, rip currents do not appear to be a significant factor in the reconstruction of the sea bottom in the studied area.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2020, 62, 3; 291-308
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
      Wyświetlanie 1-3 z 3

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