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Wyszukujesz frazę "Massel, S.R." wg kryterium: Autor

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Wyświetlanie 1-10 z 13
Tytuł:
Modelling flow in the porous bottom of the Barents Sea shelf
Autorzy:
Massel, S.R.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48663.pdf
Data publikacji:
2013
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
porous medium
surface wave
tide
Barents Sea
shelf
organic carbon
water transport
water flow
meteorological condition
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2013, 55, 1
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
On the geometry of ocean surface waves
Autorzy:
Massel, S.R.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48766.pdf
Data publikacji:
2011
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
air-sea interaction
atmosphere-ocean interaction
deep water
dynamic factor
geometry
irregular wave
marine environment
ocean surface
regular wave
shallow water
surface wave
water motion
wave breaking
wave slope
Opis:
The factors influencing the atmosphere-ocean transfer of mass and momentum, as well as incipient wave breaking and the amount of energy dissipated due to breaking, are discussed in detail. In particular, the influence of directional spreading on the statistics of surface wave slopes and the area of the wind- roughened ocean surface is demonstrated. Theoretical analysis and comparison with the available experimental data show that unimodal directional spreading is not able to reproduce the observed ratio of the cross-wind/up-wind mean square slopes. Better agreement is achieved when bimodal directional spreading, consisting of two wrapped-Gaussian distributions, is applied. The bimodal form suggested by Ewans (1998) is used in the paper. Moreover, the formulae developed here show that the increase in the area due to surface waves is rather small for both regular and irregular waves.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2011, 53, 2
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Surface waves in deep and shallow waters
Autorzy:
Massel, S.R.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48826.pdf
Data publikacji:
2010
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
surface wave
deep
shallow water
dynamic factor
marine environment
atmosphere-ocean interaction
ocean form
air-sea interface
hydrodynamics
Opis:
The motion of water due to surface waves is the most dynamic factor observed in the marine environment. In this review various aspects of the wave modelling of non-linear, steep surface waves and their role in the atmosphere-ocean interaction are discussed. Significant improvements in wave forecasting have been made in the last ten years. This is to a large extent related to substantial progress in the description of wind forcing and other processes, as well as to the more efficient use of satellite observations and assimilation methods. One striking observation is the increasing variety and complexity of models in which more physical processes are implemented, greater precision and resolution achieved and extended ranges of applicability demonstrated. However, in order to evaluate the applicability of particular models, comparison with high quality experimental data, collected in nature or under laboratory conditions, is necessary.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2010, 52, 1; 5-52
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Circulation of groundwater due to wave set-up on a permeable beach
Autorzy:
Massel, S.R.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48887.pdf
Data publikacji:
2001
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
groundwater circulation
water flow
filtration
surface wave
sandy beach
mathematical modelling
Opis:
Sandy beaches are highly exploited but very dynamic and fragile environments. Driven by waves, the water flow through the beach body is able to transport oxygen, and hence help to maintain biological activity in the porous media. The paper presents a theoretical attempt to predict the groundwater circulation due to wave set-up. Two systems of circulations have been discovered, related to two different gradients of the set-up height. For the offshore gradient, the horizontal excess pressure gradient induces flow in the offshore direction. However, closer to the shore, the pressure gradient is reversed and the resulting flow moves shorewards.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2001, 43, 3; 279-290
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Surface wave generation due to glacier calving
Autorzy:
Massel, S.R.
Przyborska, A.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48424.pdf
Data publikacji:
2013
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
surface wave
glacier
melting
climate warming
water surface
calving
geometrical factor
external factor
theoretical model
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2013, 55, 1
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Wave-induced set-up and flow over shoals and coral reefs. Part 1. A simplified bottom geometry case
Autorzy:
Massel, S.R.
Brinkman, R.M.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47564.pdf
Data publikacji:
2001
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
shoal
hydrodynamics
coral reef
shallow
biological variability
wave motion
morphology
water depth
linear function
Opis:
An analytical approach was used to model the wave-induced set-up and flow through simple shoal geometry when water depth is a linear function of the distance. Two different approaches were applied to parameterize the energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The resulting set-up height and flow velocity were determined and their dependence on the geometry of the shoal and offshore forcing was demonstrated. The extension of the solution to a more complicated bathymetry and verification against the experimental data will be given in the second part of the paper.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2001, 43, 4
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Run-up of dispersive and breaking waves on beaches
Autorzy:
Massel, S.R.
Pelinovsky, E.N.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48764.pdf
Data publikacji:
2001
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
fluctuation
wave transformation
filtration
beach
sandy beach
mathematical model
dispersive wave
surface wave
breaking wave
Opis:
Transformation of waves on sandy beaches, their breaking, set-up and run-up are the main factors contributing to fluctuations in the water table and groundwater flow. In this paper, the run-up mechanisms have been studied using analytical models. In contrast to the standard models, the waves approaching the shoreline are assumed to be dispersive and the equivalence of the non-linear and linear solutions for the extreme characteristics of wave run-up, such as the height of maximum run-up and the velocity of run-up, are used. A linear system of equations for the run-up of breaking waves is developed. This system is based on the application of the mild-slope equation in the deeper area, where waves are dispersive, while the linear equations of shallow water are applied close to the shoreline, where the water depth is a linear function of distance. The dissipation factor in the shallow water equation has been formulated using its resemblance to the mild-slope equation for a non-permeable sea bottom. Application of the method is illustrated for various bottom profiles and wave characteristics, and theoretical results compared well with experimental data. These solutions of the run-up phenomena will assist future studies on wave-induced beach groundwater flow.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2001, 43, 1
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Experiments on wave motion and suspended sediment concentration at Nang Hai, Can Gio mangrove forest, Southern Vietnam
Autorzy:
Hong Phuoc, V.L.
Massel, S.R.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47937.pdf
Data publikacji:
2006
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
subtropical zone
marine environment
trophodynamic process
Vietnam
mangrove forest
biogeochemical process
concentration
Can Gio area
wave motion
suspended sediment
Opis:
Biogeochemical and trophodynamic processes as well as hydrodynamic factors play a major role in the structure and function of mangrove ecosystems. This study outlines field experiments on wave motion and suspended sediment concentration carried out at Nang Hai, Can Gio mangrove forest, Southern Vietnam. Pressure sensors were used to measure sea surface elevation, and Optical Backscatter Sensors (OBS) were applied to detect infrared (IR) radiation scattered from suspended particles in order to measure turbidity and suspended sediment concentrations. The experimental results indicate that most of the energy is dissipated inside the mangrove forest as a result of wave-trunk interactions and wave breaking. The suspended sediment concentration depends on wave intensity and tidal current velocity. Wave action is one of the main factors forcing sediment transport and coastal erosion at the study site; even the wave field at the study site is not so strong. The establishment of mangrove vegetation can encourage the deposition of sediment, or at least the retention of the flood-tide sediment influx.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2006, 48, 1
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Attenuation of wave-induced groundwater pressure in shallow water. Part 2. Theory
Autorzy:
Massel, S.R.
Przyborska, A.
Przyborski, M.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48824.pdf
Data publikacji:
2005
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
water pressure
filtration
mathematical modelling
groundwater pressure
sandy beach
surface wave
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2005, 47, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Wyświetlanie 1-10 z 13

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