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Tytuł:
Certain solutions of periodic long waves with non-linear dispersion
Autorzy:
Chybicki, W.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241183.pdf
Data publikacji:
2004
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
long waves
Langrangian description
Opis:
The paper describes some special solutions of the long water waves theory proposed by Wilde. The wave equation is derived with the help of a variational formulation of the problem with the Langrangian being the difference between the kinetic and potential energies. In order to look for travelling wave solutions the simple transformation is made. The solutions have been found in the same way as in the KdV equation. Solutions for different wave amplitudes are presented in the paper. The special cases of solutions are solitary waves. It is proved that bounded solutions of an equation can represent periodic or solitary waves and both length and velocity of waves increase when the height of waves increases.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2004, 51, 4; 307-315
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Transformation of long waves in a canal of variable section
Autorzy:
Szmidt, K.
Hedzielski, B.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241144.pdf
Data publikacji:
2016
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
long water wave
canal of variable section
enforcement of wave height
material variables
Opis:
The paper deals with long water waves propagating in a straight canal of constant depth and variable section. In the formulation of this problem, a simplified, one-dimensional model is considered that is based on the assumption of a “columnar” fluid motion. To this end, a system of material coordinates is employed as independent variables in the description of this phe- nomenon. The main attention is focused on transient solutions corresponding to a fluid motion starting from rest. With respect to the initial value problem considered, we confine our attention to a finite domain fluid motion induced by a piston-type generator placed at the beginning of the canal. For a finite elapse of time, measured from the starting point, the solution in the finite fluid area mimics a solution within an infinite domain, inherent for wave propagation problems. The main goal of our investigations is to describe the evolution of the free surface (the wave height) at the smallest section of the canal. Numerical examples are provided to illustrate the model formulation developed in this paper. The accuracy of this approximate description is assessed by comparing its results with data obtained in hydraulic experiments performed in a laboratory flume.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2016, 63, 1; 3-18
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Boussinesq-type Equations for Long Waves in Water of Variable Depth
Autorzy:
Szmidt, K.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241151.pdf
Data publikacji:
2011
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
long waves
wave propagation
variable water depth
Opis:
The paper deals with the problem of the transformation of long gravitational waves propagating in water of variable depth. The main attention of the paper is focused on the derivation of equations describing this phenomenon. These equations are derived under the assumption that the non-viscous fluid is incompressible and rotation free, and that the fluid velocity components may be expressed in the form of the power series expansions with respect to the water depth. This procedure makes it possible to transform the original two-dimensional problem into a one-dimensional one, in which all unknown variables depend on time and a horizontal coordinate. The partial differential equations derived correspond to the conservation of mass and momentum. The solution of these equations is constructed by the finite difference method and an approximate discrete integration in the time domain. In order to estimate the accuracy of this formulation, theoretical results obtained for a specific problem were compared with experimental measurements carried out in a laboratory flume. The comparison shows that the proposed theoretical formulation is an accurate description of long waves propagating in water of variable depth.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2011, 58, 1-4; 3-21
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Run-Up of Linear Long Waves on Uniform Slope in Lagrangian Description
Autorzy:
Chybicki, W.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241448.pdf
Data publikacji:
2006
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
wave run-up
Langrangian description
Hamilton principle
hypergeometric functions
Opis:
The case of linear, two-dimensional long waves on a uniform slope is considered. It is assumed that the fluid is nonviscous and incompressible. In the present paper the description of the long wave proposed by Wilde (Wilde, Chybicki 2004) is based on the fundamental assumption that the vertical material lines of fluid remain vertical during the entire motion. The equations of motion are derived with the help of a variational formulation of the problem. The Lagrangian is the difference between the kinetic and potential energy of the fluid. In the paper a correction followed from dispersion to the results obtained by Shuto is presented.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2006, 53, 2; 97-104
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
The theory of long waves and institutional сhanges: the memory of generations hypothesis
Autorzy:
Horodecka, Anna
Vozna, Liudmyla
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/580633.pdf
Data publikacji:
2018
Wydawca:
Wydawnictwo Uniwersytetu Ekonomicznego we Wrocławiu
Tematy:
long Kondratiev wave
social upheaval
change of generations
erasure of historical memory
erosion of institutions
Opis:
The article regards the main conceptions of the long Kondratiev wave and proposes the hypothesis that connects the length of the K-wave with change of generations. According to the article’s hypothesis, a major historical event (e.g. a war or a deep economic recession) that happens in a society at a given time t causes the creation of some institutions designed to mitigate the consequences of this event and avoid its recurrence in the future. With a change of generations, the historical memory about the t-event is weakening, and this leads to the erosion of mentioned institutions increasing risks of the emergence of similar events. So the article attempts to demonstrate that some problems faced by modern Western society can also be associated with the cycle described in the article.
Źródło:
Prace Naukowe Uniwersytetu Ekonomicznego we Wrocławiu; 2018, 509; 95-109
1899-3192
Pojawia się w:
Prace Naukowe Uniwersytetu Ekonomicznego we Wrocławiu
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
A new form of Boussinesq equations for long waves in water of non-uniform depth
Autorzy:
Szmidt, J.
Hedzielski, B.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/201637.pdf
Data publikacji:
2012
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Czytelnia Czasopism PAN
Tematy:
long wave
Boussinesq equation
wave transformation
variable water depth
Opis:
The paper describes the non-linear transformation of long waves in shallow water of variable depth. Governing equations of the problem are derived under the assumption that the non-viscous fluid is incompressible and the fluid flow is a rotation free. A new form of Boussinesq-type equations is derived employing a power series expansion of the fluid velocity components with respect to the water depth. These non-linear partial differential equations correspond to the conservation of mass and momentum. In order to find the dispersion characteristic of the description, a linear approximation of these equations is derived. A second order approximation of the governing equations is applied to study a time dependent transformation of waves in a rectangular basin of water of variable depth. Such a case corresponds to a spatially periodic problem of sea waves approaching a near-shore zone. In order to overcome difficulties in integrating these equations, the finite difference method is applied to transform them into a set of non-linear ordinary differential equations with respect to the time variable. This final set of these equations is integrated numerically by employing the fourth order Runge - Kutta method.
Źródło:
Bulletin of the Polish Academy of Sciences. Technical Sciences; 2012, 60, 3; 631-643
0239-7528
Pojawia się w:
Bulletin of the Polish Academy of Sciences. Technical Sciences
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Long water waves as a structure fluid interaction problem
Autorzy:
Wilde, P.
Chybicki, W.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241470.pdf
Data publikacji:
2004
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
long waves
Lagrangian description
Hamilton principle
Opis:
The paper describes a new formulation of the theory of long shallow water waves, which is based on the fundamental assumption that vertical material lines of fluid remain vertical during the entire motion. To make the problem consistent from the point of view of physics the case of waves in a flume due to the motion of a piston type generator is considered. At the piston the material line of water particles remains vertical during the entire motion and thus the generation follows the assumption in the description of the motion of water in the flume. Wave equations are derived with the help of a variational formulation of the problem in a material description. The Lagrangian is the difference between the kinetic and potential energies of the fluid and the mechanical system that describes a very simplified wave generator. The basic assumption simplifies the geometry of the displacement field. The definitions of generalized forces follow from variational calculus. The procedure ensures that the energy is preserved. A simple discrete formulation of the problem is based on the finite element method and the corresponding approximate expressions for energies.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2004, 51, 2; 95-118
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
On the Description of Long Water Waves in Material Variables
Autorzy:
Szmidt, K.
Hedzielski, B.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241085.pdf
Data publikacji:
2009
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
long waves
shallow water
unsteady motion
sloping beach
Opis:
Shallow water equations formulated in material variables are presented in this paper. In the model considered, a three-dimensional physical problem is substituted by a two-dimensional one describing a transformation of long waves in water of variable depth. The latter is obtained by means of the assumption that a vertical column of water particles remains vertical during the entire motion of the fluid. Under the assumption of small, continuous variation of the water depth, the equations for gravity waves are derived through Hamilton's principle formulated in terms of the material coordinates. This formulation ensures the conservation of mechanical energy. The approximation depends on the wave parameters as well as on the bed bathymetry. The latter may influence a solution of the model decisively; thus, one should be careful in applying the description to complicated geometries of fluid domains encountered in engineering practice.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2009, 56, 1-2; 63-83
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Simple water waves in Lagrangian description
Autorzy:
Chybicki, W.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241122.pdf
Data publikacji:
2006
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
long waves
Riemann invariants
simple wave
Langrangian description
Opis:
Details of the model of long water waves in the Lagrangian description are presented. The equation of motion is derived from variational formulation of the problem. Only two important cases are considered: when the water depth changes uniformly in space or the depth is constant. For quasilinear hyperbolic system obtained in this description the Riemann invariants and equation of simple waves are found. For constant depth, the Riemann invariants are exactly the same as in the Euler description, however, the velocity of wave propagation is different. In case of uniform slope the velocity, as well as the Riemann invariants are different. In the Lagrangian description the free surface is described in parametric form.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2006, 53, 4; 381-387
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
On the transformation of long gravity waves on a sloping beach
Autorzy:
Szmidt, J.K.
Hedzielski, B.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/49151.pdf
Data publikacji:
2010
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
long wave
gravity wave
transformation
wave transformation
sloping beach
wave gauge
propagation
investigation
experimental measurement
Opis:
The transformation of long water waves arriving at a sloping beach is investigated. An approximate theory is presented for plane periodic waves propagating in water of non-uniform depth. The theoretical description of the phenomenon, based on certain kinematic assumptions, is formulated in the material variables, and the solution is constructed by applying the Hamilton variational principle. In order to assess the accuracy of the formulation and to learn more about long wave transformation, experimental measurements were carried out in a laboratory flume. In the experiments, a water wave, generated by a piston-type wave maker placed at one end of the flume, propagated towards a rigid inclined ramp installed at the other end of the flume. The wave transformation along the direction of its propagation was recorded by a set of wave gauges installed along the flume. The wave run- up on the sloping beach was measured with a special conductivity gauge placed alongside the ramp. Comparison of the theoretical results with experimental data indicates that the proposed theoretical formulation provides a good description of the main features of wave transformation behaviour over a sloping beach, except in the vicinity of the shore point, where some discrepancies occur.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2010, 52, 3; 363-389
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Climate of long internal waves and resuspension on the coastal shelf
Autorzy:
Bogucki, D.J.
Redekopp, L.G.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47452.pdf
Data publikacji:
2008
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
boundary layer
internal wave
turbulence
resuspension
long internal wave
internal solitary wave
coastal shelf
instability
climate
coastal area
Opis:
Observations of the shelf environment rarely associate internal solitary waves (ISWs) with the impact of their passage. An experiment observed during the Coastal Mixing and Optics 1996( CMO ’96), a sequence of long internal waves on a coastal shelf is reported, including both mode-1 and mode-2 waves, together with evidence related to the interaction of propagating ISWs and the benthic boundary layer. The observed ISW dynamics is shown to present a repetitive pattern or ‘climate cycle’. The ISW-associated benthic signature described here occurs frequently (at least once a day) in the CMO ’96coastal area and suggests that ISWs under calm, summer-like conditions may have a decisive influence on the fate of near-bottom pollutants or biological processes in shelf regions.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2008, 50, 1; 5-21
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Long gravity waves in a canal with a corrugated bottom in the asymptotic description
Autorzy:
Bielski, Włodzimierz
Wojnar, Ryszard
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/1839674.pdf
Data publikacji:
2021
Wydawca:
Polskie Towarzystwo Mechaniki Teoretycznej i Stosowanej
Tematy:
bottom profiles
homogenization approach
effective depth
Opis:
We consider the classic Lagrange long gravitational wave of a homogeneous incompressible fluid in a shallow canal with a corrugated bottom. We use the asymptotic expansion method to find the effective depth of a one-dimensional canal and, hence, the effective wave velocity. A flow in a two-dimensional tank with a corrugated bottom is also studied by this method.
Źródło:
Journal of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics; 2021, 59, 3; 443-454
1429-2955
Pojawia się w:
Journal of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
On the Transformation of Long Gravitational Waves in a Region of Variable Water Depth: a Comparison of Theory and Experiment
Autorzy:
Szmidt, K.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241424.pdf
Data publikacji:
2007
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
shallow water
nonlinear waves
non-uniform water depth
Opis:
The paper describes investigations on transformation of long gravitational waves in water of variable depth with reflection of the waves from a shelf barrier. In the model considered, a long water wave arrives from an area of constant water depth to an area of constant, smaller water depth, where it reflects at a vertical wall. The analysis is confined to a finite fluid domain, relevant to experimental investigations in a laboratory flume. In theoretical analysis of the phenomenon, we follow a non-linear shallow water approximation to the problem considered. The fundamental equations of fluid motion are derived with the help of a standard variational procedure in a material system of coordinates. The equations proved to be a reasonable approximation to a description of the long waves propagating in fluid with small variation of its depth. In the discussed case of reflection of such waves from a vertical barrier, however, the motion of the fluid is more complicated and therefore the long water wave theory does not deliver as good results as in the case of pure propagation of the waves. The primary objective of this paper is thus to compare the theoretical solution proposed with data obtained in experiments, and to answer the question about accuracy and applicability of the theoretical model in the description of the problem investigated.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2007, 54, 2; 137-158
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Makrocyrkulacyjne uwarunkowania długotrwałych fal termicznych w Polsce
Macro-Circulation as a Conditioning Factor for Long-Lasting Thermal Waves in Poland
Autorzy:
Degirmendžić, J.
Kożuchowski, K.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/163894.pdf
Data publikacji:
2017
Wydawca:
Polskie Towarzystwa Geofizyczne
Tematy:
makrotypy Vangengeima-Girsa
Polska
fale termiczne
cyrkulacja w dolnej troposferze
cyrkulacja w środkowej troposferze
Vangengeim-Girs macrotypes
Polska
thermal waves
low-tropospheric circulation
mid-tropospheric circulation
Opis:
Artykuł zawiera przegląd wyników badań klimatologicznych określających rolę cyrkulacji dolno- i środkowo-troposferycznej w kształtowaniu zmienności temperatury powietrza w Polsce. Szczególną uwagę zwrócono na związki temperatury z cyrkulacją w środkowej troposferze, opisaną w ujęciu makroform cyrkulacji wyróżnionych w klasyfikacji Vangengeima-Girsa (V-G). Na podstawie danych z lat 1958-2008 wyróżniono w Polsce 52 co najmniej 6-dniowe fale ciepła i 81 fal chłodu. Charakteryzują się one średnią obszarową temperaturą (w Polsce) wykraczającą poza zakres TŚR ± 1,28×STD (TŚR – średnia wieloletnia wartość temperatury w danym dniu, STD – odchylenie standardowe temperatury). Określono również dni z najniższą i najwyższą temperaturą dobową w każdym roku 50-lecia. Analizowano frekwencję makroform cyrkulacji V-G towarzyszących falom termicznym i dniom najcieplejszym/najzimniejszym; rozkłady tych częstości uznano za podstawę określenia makroform sprzyjających kształtowaniu fal ciepła lub fal chłodu oraz najcieplejszych i najchłodniejszych dni w Polsce. Stwierdzono m.in., że fale chłodu wykazują silniejsze niż fale ciepła statystycznie istotne związki z makroformami cyrkulacji. W ciepłej połowie roku (wiosna, lato) związki fal termicznych z makroformi cyrkulacji są słabsze niż w pozostałych porach roku. Fale ciepła w zimie występują najczęściej podczas panowania strefowej makroformy cyrkulacji W. Latem natomiast przy cyrkulacji W obserwuje się ograniczoną liczbę zarówno fal ciepła, jak i fal chłodu. W okresie wiosny i lata fale ciepła są najczęściej związane z makroformą E. Fale chłodu, zwłaszcza w przejściowych porach roku, są najczęściej uwarunkowane panowaniem makroformy C. W zimie powstawaniu fal chłodu sprzyja także makroforma E. Wystąpienia dni najcieplejszych i najchłodniejszych w roku wykazują podobną koincydencję z makroformami cyrkulacji jak fale termiczne odpowiednio w lecie i w zimie. Analiza kilku przypadków długotrwałych fal termicznych wykazuje, iż makroformie W odpowiada silna strefowa cyrkulacja nad przeważająca częścią Europy i adwekcja zachodnia nad Polską w dolnej i środkowej troposferze (rys. 2). Makroformie cyrkulacji C odpowiada układ blokadowy Rexa (z wyżem nad rejonem Morza Północnego i niżem nad Morzem Śródziemnym) oraz adwekcja chłodnych mas powietrza z północy nad Polska (rys. 4). Przy cyrkulacji w formie E stwierdzono w zimie dolny klin Wyżu Azjatyckiego nad Skandynawią, warunkujący fale mrozów w Polsce (rys. 5), latem natomiast rozległy układ antycyklonalny nad Europa Środkową, powodujący falę ciepła w Polsce (rys. 3).
The article contains an overview of the climatological research concerning the role of the lower and mid-tropospheric circulation in shaping the variability of the air temperature in Poland. Particular attention was paid to the link of temperature with mid-tropospheric circulation, described in terms of macro-circulation forms distinguished in Vangengeim-Girs' (V-G) classification. Based on data from the period 1958-2008, 52 heat waves and 81 cold waves in Poland with minimum duration 6-days were selected. Wave includes the days with areal temperature (averaged for Poland's territory) falling beyond the range TŚR ± 1,28×STD (TŚR – long-term mean temperature for a given day, STD – standard deviation of temperature). Also the days with the lowest and the highest daily temperature in each year during the analyzed period were identified. The frequency of V-G macro-circulation forms accompanying thermal waves and the warmest/coldest days was analyzed; the distributions of these frequencies were considered as a basis for selecting macro-circulation forms conducive to the formation of heat/cold waves and the warmest/coldest days in Poland. It was found that the cold waves are more closely related to macro-circulation forms than heat waves – those relations proved to be statistically significant as well. Thermal waves are less apparently linked to V-G macro forms' variability during warm half of the year (spring, summer) than in other seasons. Heat waves in the winter are most common when W zonal macro-circulation form prevails. In summer, during W macroform dominance the number of heat as well as cold waves is limited. In spring and summer heat waves are most commonly associated with E macro-circulation form. Cold waves, especially in the transitional seasons, are usually steered by C macroform. In winter cold wave formation is also favored by E macro-circulation form. The warmest and coldest days coincide with macro-circulation forms in a similar manner as thermal waves, respectively in summer and winter. The analysis of several cases of long-lasting thermal waves shows that W macro-circulation form coexists with strong zonal circulation over Europe and with western advection over Poland in lower and middle troposphere (Fig. 2). C macro-form corresponds to Rex block, featured by anticyclone situated over the North Sea coupled with cyclone over the Mediterranean Sea and northerly cold air advection over Poland (Fig. 4). While E macro-circulation form is developed during winter, the so-called extension of Asiatic High towards Scandinavia is observed, causing frosty condition in Poland (Fig. 5). In summer E form is associated with widespread anticyclone over central Europe causing heat wave in Poland (Fig. 3).
Źródło:
Przegląd Geofizyczny; 2017, 1-2; 3-28
0033-2135
Pojawia się w:
Przegląd Geofizyczny
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
A cost-effective method for estimating long-term effects of waves on beach erosion with application to Sitia Bay, Crete
Autorzy:
Karathanasi, F.E.
Belibassakis, K.A.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47505.pdf
Data publikacji:
2019
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
beach
erosion
sea environment
hydrodynamic process
seabed
sediment transport
long-term effect
Sita Bay
Crete
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2019, 61, 2
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
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