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    Tytuł:
    Note on estimating bed shear stress caused by breaking random waves
    Autorzy:
    Myrhaug, D.
    Ong, M.C.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2078910.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2021
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    shear stress
    breaking wave
    surf parameter
    wave height
    surf zone
    Opis:
    This note presents a method of how the bed shear stress caused by breaking random waves on slopes can be estimated. This is obtained by adopting the Sumer et al. (2013) bed shear stress formula due to spilling and plunging breaking waves on hydraulically smooth slopes combined with the Myrhaug and Fouques (2012) joint distribution of surf similarity parameter and wave height for individual random waves in deep water. The conditional mean value of the maxima of mean bed shear stress during wave runup given wave height in deep water is provided including an example for spilling and plunging breaking random waves corresponding to typical field conditions. Another example compares the present results with one case from Thornton and Guza (1983) estimating the wave energy dissipation caused by bed shear stress beneath breaking random waves
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2021, 63, 3; 385-390
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Dependence of the surf zone aerosol on wind direction and wind speed at a coastal site on the Baltic Sea
    Autorzy:
    Zielinski, T.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48813.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2003
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    meteorological condition
    surf zone
    aerosol
    coastal site
    Baltic Sea
    lidar
    wind
    Opis:
    Since 1992 lidar-based measurements have been carried out under various meteorological conditions and at various times of the year. The aerosol optical properties were determined in the marine boundary layer as a function of altitude using such factors as wind direction, duration and velocity and aerosol size distribution and concentration. It was confirmed that in all cases, the total aerosol concentration, size distribution and aerosol extinction increase with wind speed but decrease with altitude. In the range of wind velocities from 1 to 15 m s−1 the mean aerosol optical thickness of the atmosphere (VIS) obtained from the lidar varied from 0.1 to 0.38 for offshore winds and from 0.01 to about 0.1 for onshore winds, while the ˚Angstr¨om parameter for VIS oscillated around 0.65 for onshore winds and around 1 for offshore winds. Both parameters depended strongly on the history of the air mass above the Baltic Sea. Such aerosol optical thicknesses are in agreement with those obtained by other researchers in the Baltic Sea area.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2003, 45, 3
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Rip currents in the non-tidal surf zone with sandbars: numerical analysis versus field measurements
    Autorzy:
    Dudkowska, A.
    Borun, A.
    Malicki, J.
    Schonhofer, J.
    Gic-Grusza, G.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2079185.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2020
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    coastal zone
    non-tidal surf zone
    hydromorphological condition
    bathymetry
    hydroengineering
    numerical analysis
    Opis:
    Rip currents, which are local seaward-directed jets with their mean velocity exceeding 0.5 m/s, have been a subject of many studies since the 1940s. They are an important part of the nearshore current system and in specific hydro- and litomorphological conditions can cause changes in the local bathymetry. Thus, a detailed analysis of the characteristics of this phenomenon is crucial both to public safety and hydroengineering. The main purpose of this research is to determine the wave conditions of a multi-bar non-tidal coastal zone environment in which rip currents can occur. In this study, we focus on a multi-bar non-tidal coastal zone environment located in the Southern Baltic Sea, where rip current driving forces are mostly reduced to the wind and wind-induced waves. This is one of very few comprehensive approaches to exploring the possibility of rip currents occurrence in such environmental conditions. During two field expeditions, there were carried out in situ measurements exploiting two GPS drifters. The results indicate the formation of irregular non-longshore flows (related to rip currents) in the studied area. To answer the question under what conditions the formation of rip currents takes place, an extended modelling experiment was performed. Deep-water wave conditions typical of the studied area were chosen due to bouy measurements. The total of 589 combinations of the significant wave height, the mean period and wave direction values were examined as test cases. The coastal flow in the area and tracks of virtual drifters were simulated by XBeach numerical model for all test cases. As a result, 589 nearshore currents fields were generated and two scenarios were indicated: a regular circulation (dominated by the longshore current) which is typical of this area (547 cases), and flows with rip current features (42 cases). This reflects the results of the field measurements carried out. It can be concluded that the wave direction is a dominating factor in the formation of rip currents. Namely the flows of this type may occur in the area of interest when the direction of a deep water wave is almost perpendicular to the shore. Such situations occur rarely. They cover about 7% of the days of the year. Thus, rip currents do not appear to be a significant factor in the reconstruction of the sea bottom in the studied area.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2020, 62, 3; 291-308
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Driving forces of sandy sediment transport beyond the surf zone
    Autorzy:
    Stella, M.
    Ostrowski, R.
    Szmytkiewicz, P.
    Kapinski, J.
    Marcinkowski, T.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47878.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2019
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    sandy sediment
    sediment transport
    surf zone
    wave-current interaction
    roughness
    coastal zone
    Baltic Sea
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2019, 61, 1
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Zonation of macrofauna across sandy beaches and surf zones along the Dutch coast
    Autorzy:
    Janssen, G.
    Mulder, S.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47535.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2005
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    surf zone
    beach
    macrofauna
    Dutch coast
    sandy beach
    zonation
    macrobenthos
    sandy shore
    Opis:
    On nine beaches and two transects in the surf zone along the Dutch coast the presence of benthic macrofauna was studied in relation to basic abiotic characteristics. According to Short’s classification system, Dutch beaches are mesotidal and dissipative (Ω = 8.6), and the RTR is low (1.52–1.27), which means that they are not tide-dominated. BSI ranged from 1.4 to 1.1 for the northern and western Dutch coasts respectively and had an overall value of 1.2. The rates of exposure of the beaches varied between 8 and 12, and are therefore regarded as sheltered to moderately exposed. The Dutch beaches display a geographical trend in beach types. Those of the Wadden Sea islands in the northern part of the Netherlands are dissipative, flat, fine-grained, and host high densities of many species of benthic macrofauna. The beaches along the western Dutch coast are less dissipative, steeper, with a higher mean grain size; the species diversity and abundance there are lower. Species diversity and abundance on the beaches increase from the high- to the low-water line. The maximum number of species was found between 0 and –1 m relative to the mean tidal level. The abundance peaks just above the mean tidal level, while the biomass reaches a maximum at the mean tidal level. Species diversity and abundance are low in the surf zone, but increase towards deeper water. Species numbers are high and the abundance is very high in the trough between the two bars. The relation between the diversity and abundance of macrobenthic species on the one hand, and the sediment composition, water column depth, and position between the bars on the other show a clear pattern of zonation for the beach, surf zone and near-shore: (1) a supralittoral zone with insects and air-breathing crustaceans, (2) a midshore zone, with intertidal species, (3) a lower shore zone, whose species extend into the shallow surf zone, and (4) a zone of sublittoral fauna in the trough between the two breaker bars within the surf zone.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2005, 47, 2
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Variations in the physical properties of surf generated aerosols with altitude
    Autorzy:
    Zielinski, T.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47751.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2003
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    concentration gradient
    surf zone
    wind speed
    physical property
    vertical profile
    altitude
    marine aerosol
    Opis:
    Vertical profiles of marine aerosol size distribution and concentration in the marine boundary layer over surf zones depend strongly on wind speed, direction and duration as well as the sea bottom profile. The measurements in the present study were carried out in various seasons of the year with all these factors being taken into consideration. The data with respect to offshore winds were neglected in the calculations, since in such cases the major aerosol contribution was from terrigenous and anthropogenic particles. It was confirmed that in the range of wind speeds from 1 m s−1 to 12 m s−1 there were measurable differences in the concentrations, particularly in the size distribution of marine aerosol particles at two stations differing with respect to their sea bottom profiles.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2003, 45, 4
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Extended elliptic mild slope equation incorporating the nonlinear shoaling effect
    Autorzy:
    Xiao, Q. L.
    Li, Ch. H.
    Fu, X. Y.
    Wang, M. J.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/258718.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2016
    Wydawca:
    Politechnika Gdańska. Wydział Inżynierii Mechanicznej i Okrętownictwa
    Tematy:
    nonlinear dispersion relation
    nonlinear shoaling coefficient
    extended elliptic mild slope equation
    surf zone
    wave transformation
    Opis:
    The transformation during wave propagation is significantly important for the calculations of hydraulic and coastal engineering, as well as the sediment transport. The exact wave height deformation calculation on the coasts is essential to near-shore hydrodynamics research and the structure design of coastal engineering. According to the wave shoaling results gained from the elliptical cosine wave theory, the nonlinear wave dispersion relation is adopted to develop the expression of the corresponding nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient. Based on the extended elliptic mild slope equation, an efficient wave numerical model is presented in this paper for predicting wave deformation across the complex topography and the surf zone, incorporating the nonlinear wave dispersion relation, the nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient and other energy dissipation factors. Especially, the phenomenon of wave recovery and second breaking could be shown by the present model. The classical Berkhoff single elliptic topography wave tests, the sinusoidal varying topography experiment, and complex composite slopes wave flume experiments are applied to verify the accuracy of the calculation of wave heights. Compared with experimental data, good agreements are found upon single elliptical topography and one-dimensional beach profiles, including uniform slope and step-type profiles. The results indicate that the newly-developed nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient improves the calculated accuracy of wave transformation in the surf zone efficiently, and the wave breaking is the key factor affecting the wave characteristics and need to be considered in the nearshore wave simulations.
    Źródło:
    Polish Maritime Research; 2016, S 1; 44-51
    1233-2585
    Pojawia się w:
    Polish Maritime Research
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Shallow-water wave energy dissipation in a multi-bar coastal zone
    Autorzy:
    Pruszak, Z.
    Szmytkiewicz, P.
    Ostrowski, R.
    Skaja, M.
    Szmytkiewicz, M.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47959.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2008
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    coastal region
    energy dissipation
    surf zone
    Baltic Sea
    wave parameter
    wave motion
    wave transformation
    shallow water
    coastal zone
    offshore wave
    Opis:
    The paper presents the results of studies of wave transformation on a multi-bar cross-shore profile of the southern Baltic Sea. The field investigations of wave motion were carried out using an offshore wave buoy and string wave gauges at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station, Lubiatowo (Poland). These experimental results were used to validate statistical relationships between characteristic wave parameters in the coastal region and to assess wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. Asimple model for calculating the residual nearshore wave energy is proposed and tested versus the data collected in situ.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2008, 50, 1; 43-58
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Coastal hydrodynamics beyond the surf zone of the South Baltic Sea
    Autorzy:
    Ostrowski, R.
    Stella, M.
    Szmytkiewicz, P.
    Kapinski, J.
    Marcinkowski, T.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47802.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2018
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    hydrodynamic process
    coastal region
    surf zone
    Southern Baltic Sea
    wind velocity
    bottom sediment
    water column
    theoretical investigation
    experimental investigation
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2018, 60, 3
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Some probabilistic properties of surf parameter
    Autorzy:
    Myrhaug, D.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2079192.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2020
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    probabilistic property
    surf parameter
    wave statistics
    continental shelf
    coastal zone
    Norway
    Opis:
    This article is supplementary to Myrhaug (2018) and presents some probabilistic properties of the surf parameter for individual waves and the spectral surf parameter for sea states by using distributions based on data from the Norwegian continental shelf. The average statistical features given by the mean value and the standard deviation of the two surf parameters are considered. Examples of results for the surf parameter are provided for a Phillips spectrum and a family of JONSWAP spectra for wind sea, and for sea states using a joint frequency table of significant wave height and mean zero-crossing wave period for combined wind sea and swell. The spectral surf parameter results are obtained by using a joint distribution of significant wave height and spectral surf parameter, and the mean statistical properties are given for joint frequency tables of significant wave height and mean zero-crossing wave period from three deep water locations on the Norwegian continental shelf. It is also demonstrated how the results can be applied to calculate the vertical wave runup elevation for breaking waves.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2020, 62, 3; 395-401
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
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