Temat: coastal wave - Katalog OPAC zbiorów

Skocz do pozycji: 1.

Tytuł:: Shallow-water wave energy dissipation in a multi-bar coastal zone
Autorzy:: Pruszak, Z.
Szmytkiewicz, P.
Ostrowski, R.
Skaja, M.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47959.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2008
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: coastal region
energy dissipation
surf zone
Baltic Sea
wave parameter
wave motion
wave transformation
shallow water
coastal zone
offshore wave
Opis:: The paper presents the results of studies of wave transformation on a multi-bar cross-shore profile of the southern Baltic Sea. The field investigations of wave motion were carried out using an offshore wave buoy and string wave gauges at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station, Lubiatowo (Poland). These experimental results were used to validate statistical relationships between characteristic wave parameters in the coastal region and to assess wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. Asimple model for calculating the residual nearshore wave energy is proposed and tested versus the data collected in situ.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2008, 50, 1; 43-58
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

Artykuł

Skocz do pozycji: 2.

Tytuł:: Modelling longshore sediment transport under asymmetric waves
Autorzy:: Ostrowski, R.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/49027.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2006
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: coastal zone
hydrodynamic condition
sandy sediment
wave-current interaction
sediment transport
wave asymmetry
Opis:: Two wave theories are applied in calculations of longshore sediment transport rates: the second Stokes approximation and the cnoidal theory. These approaches are used to model sand motion in nearshore locations beyond and within the surf zone. Wave-current interaction in the nearbed layer and bed shear stresses are solved using a momentum integral method, whereas sediment transport is described by a three-layer model encompassing bedload, contact load and suspended load. Computational results for asymmetric waves are compared with the results obtained using linear wave theory and the conventional sediment transport models of Bailard (1981), Bijker (1971) and Van Rijn (1993).
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2006, 48, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

Artykuł

Skocz do pozycji: 3.

Tytuł:: Longshore sediment transport at Golden Sands (Bulgaria)
Autorzy:: Nikolov, H.
Trifonova, E.
Cherneva, Z.
Ostrowski, R.
Skaja, M.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48714.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2006
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: coastal zone
wave refraction
wave diffraction
Black Sea
sandy beach
sediment transport
Golden Sands
Bulgaria
Opis:: The paper presents the results of studies on the qualitative and quantitative features of the littoral drift at Golden Sands (Bulgaria), carried out jointly by Polish and Bulgarian researchers. The mathematical modelling of physical coastal processes took wave transformation (wave diffraction and refraction; the effects of shoaling and wave breaking) and longshore sediment transport into account. The computations were carried out for the mean statistical annual wave climate, determined on the basis of IO BAS wave data, simulated using the WAM method from long-term Black Sea wind data. The results of sediment transport computations clearly show that its direction off the Golden Sands shore is from north to south.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2006, 48, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

Artykuł

Informacja