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Wyświetlanie 1-3 z 3
Tytuł:
Long period oscillations in the longshore current on a sandy, barred coast investigated with singular spectrum analysis
Autorzy:
Kaczmarek, J.
Rozynski, G.
Pruszak, Z.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47837.pdf
Data publikacji:
2005
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
beach process
nearshore region
longshore current
coastal process
infragravity wave
singular spectrum analysis
Opis:
The presence of infragravity waves in nearshore regions can be sought in the records of both water levels and wave-driven longshore currents. For this reason, time series of such currents in close proximity to the shoreline were analysed using Singular Spectrum Analysis (SSA). Simultaneously, the results obtained with this method were confronted with the output of Discrete Wavelet Transform (DWT), which had previously been applied to this data. The records of longshore currents were collected on a daily basis during field experiments in the autumns of 2002 and 2003 with sampling rates of 3 Hz and 0.5 Hz. This produced a large data set that allowed for the use of an advanced signal processing technique, capable of extracting patterns characteristic of low-, medium- and high-frequency bands. It provided similar evidence to that produced by DWT for the existence of infragravity waves along a dissipative coast with multiple bars. The study also demonstrated the utility of SSA for studies on coastal hydrodynamics. It also showed up the better user-friendliness of DWT in terms of pattern extraction and interpretation. On the other hand, SSA demonstrated a higher precision of pattern extraction once the DWT output was known, which is a manifestation of the synergy of the two methods when applied jointly.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2005, 47, 1
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Condition of South-Eastern Baltic Sea Shores and Methods of Protecting Them
Autorzy:
Ostrowski, R.
Pruszak, Z.
Babakov, A.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241406.pdf
Data publikacji:
2014
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
South-Eastern Baltic coast
dynamics of cliffs and beach/dune shores
anthropogenic impacts
shore protection against erosion
Opis:
The paper describes lithodynamic and morphodynamic processes occurring in the main part of the south-eastern Baltic coastal area, namely on the sea shores from the Vistula mouth in the Gulf of Gdansk to the Lithuanian-Latvian border. The study area is subject to intensive natural coastal changes, as well as shore evolution caused by anthropogenic impacts at several locations. Methods of coastal protection against erosion and shore stabilization systems applied in the past and currently are described. The paper deals with the causes of the dynamics of beach/dune shores and cliffs. It presents the authors’ field observations of 2010-2013, as well as previously gained knowledge and the results of Polish, Russian and joint Polish-Russian field surveys.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2014, 61, 1-2; 17-37
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Megascale rhythmic shoreline forms on a beach with multiple bars
Autorzy:
Pruszak, Z.
Rozynski, G.
Szmytkiewicz, P.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47943.pdf
Data publikacji:
2008
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
bar
beach
shoreline form
shoreline configuration
wavelength
Baltic Sea
rhythmic form
nearshore zone
Baltic coast
statistical analysis
multibar profile
Opis:
The study, carried out in 2003 and 2006 at the Lubiatowo Coastal Research Station (Poland), located on the non-tidal southern Baltic coast (tidal range < 0.06 m), focused on larger rhythmic forms (mega-cusps) with wavelengths in the interval 500 m > Lc > 20 m. Statistical analyses of detailed shoreline configurations were performed mostly with the Discrete Wavelet Transform method (DWT). The beach is composed of fine sand with grain diameter D50 ≈ 0.22 mm, which produces 4 longshore sandbars and a gently sloping seabed with β = 0.015. The analysis confirms the key role of bars in hydro- and morphodynamic surf zone processes. The hypothesis was therefore set up that, in a surf zone with multiple bars, the bars and mega-scale shoreline rhythmic forms form one integrated physical system; experimental evidence to substantiate this hypothesis was also sought. In such a system not only do self-regulation processes include swash zone phenomena, they also incorporate processes in offshore surf zone locations. The longshore dimensions of large cusps are thus related to the distances between periodically active large bed forms (bars). The spatial dimension of bar system activity (number of active bars) depends, at a given time scale, on the associated hydrodynamic conditions. It was assumed that such a time scale could include either the development and duration of a storm, or a period of stable, yet distinct waves, capable of remodelling the beach configuration. The indentation to wavelength ratio of mega-cusps for the studied non-tidal dissipative environment may be one order of magnitude greater than for mesotidal, reflective beaches.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2008, 50, 2; 183-203
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
    Wyświetlanie 1-3 z 3

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