Temat: water motion - Katalog OPAC zbiorów

Skocz do pozycji: 1.

Tytuł:: On the geometry of ocean surface waves
Autorzy:: Massel, S.R.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48766.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2011
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: air-sea interaction
atmosphere-ocean interaction
deep water
dynamic factor
geometry
irregular wave
marine environment
ocean surface
regular wave
shallow water
surface wave
water motion
wave breaking
wave slope
Opis:: The factors influencing the atmosphere-ocean transfer of mass and momentum, as well as incipient wave breaking and the amount of energy dissipated due to breaking, are discussed in detail. In particular, the influence of directional spreading on the statistics of surface wave slopes and the area of the wind- roughened ocean surface is demonstrated. Theoretical analysis and comparison with the available experimental data show that unimodal directional spreading is not able to reproduce the observed ratio of the cross-wind/up-wind mean square slopes. Better agreement is achieved when bimodal directional spreading, consisting of two wrapped-Gaussian distributions, is applied. The bimodal form suggested by Ewans (1998) is used in the paper. Moreover, the formulae developed here show that the increase in the area due to surface waves is rather small for both regular and irregular waves.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2011, 53, 2
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

Artykuł

Skocz do pozycji: 2.

Tytuł:: Wave-induced set-up and flow over shoals and coral reefs. Part 1. A simplified bottom geometry case
Autorzy:: Massel, S.R.
Brinkman, R.M.
Powiązania:: https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47564.pdf
Data publikacji:: 2001
Wydawca:: Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:: shoal
hydrodynamics
coral reef
shallow
biological variability
wave motion
morphology
water depth
linear function
Opis:: An analytical approach was used to model the wave-induced set-up and flow through simple shoal geometry when water depth is a linear function of the distance. Two different approaches were applied to parameterize the energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The resulting set-up height and flow velocity were determined and their dependence on the geometry of the shoal and offshore forcing was demonstrated. The extension of the solution to a more complicated bathymetry and verification against the experimental data will be given in the second part of the paper.
Źródło:: Oceanologia; 2001, 43, 4
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:: Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:: Biblioteka Nauki

Artykuł

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