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    Wyświetlanie 1-4 z 4
    Tytuł:
    Experimental study of the formation of steep waves and breakers
    Autorzy:
    Massel, S.R.
    Tegowski, J.
    Chomka, M.
    Wichorowski, M.
    Dabrowski, J.
    Stansberg, C.T.
    Moe, V.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47742.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2001
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    sea surface
    surface wave
    open sea
    surface gravity wave
    wave breaking
    wave formation
    steep wave
    Opis:
    Breaking waves (whitecaps) are one of the most important and least understood processes associated with the evolution of the surface gravity wave field in the open sea. This process is the principal means by which energy and momentum are transferred away from a developing sea. However, an estimation of the frequency of breaking waves or the fraction of sea surface covered by whitecaps and the amount of dissipated energy induced by breaking is very difficult to carry out under real sea conditions. A controlled experiment, funded by the European Commission under the Improving Human Potential Access Infrastructures programme, was carried out in the Ocean Basin Laboratory at MARINTEK, Trondheim (Norway). Simulation of random waves of the prescribed spectra by wave makers provided a very realistic pattern of the sea surface. The number of breaking waves was estimated by photographing the sea surface and recording the noise caused by the breaking waves. The experimental data will serve for calibration of the theoretical models of the sea surface fraction related to the whitecaps.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2001, 43, 3; 353-363
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    On the geometry of ocean surface waves
    Autorzy:
    Massel, S.R.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48766.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2011
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    air-sea interaction
    atmosphere-ocean interaction
    deep water
    dynamic factor
    geometry
    irregular wave
    marine environment
    ocean surface
    regular wave
    shallow water
    surface wave
    water motion
    wave breaking
    wave slope
    Opis:
    The factors influencing the atmosphere-ocean transfer of mass and momentum, as well as incipient wave breaking and the amount of energy dissipated due to breaking, are discussed in detail. In particular, the influence of directional spreading on the statistics of surface wave slopes and the area of the wind- roughened ocean surface is demonstrated. Theoretical analysis and comparison with the available experimental data show that unimodal directional spreading is not able to reproduce the observed ratio of the cross-wind/up-wind mean square slopes. Better agreement is achieved when bimodal directional spreading, consisting of two wrapped-Gaussian distributions, is applied. The bimodal form suggested by Ewans (1998) is used in the paper. Moreover, the formulae developed here show that the increase in the area due to surface waves is rather small for both regular and irregular waves.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2011, 53, 2
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Run-up of dispersive and breaking waves on beaches
    Autorzy:
    Massel, S.R.
    Pelinovsky, E.N.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48764.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2001
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    fluctuation
    wave transformation
    filtration
    beach
    sandy beach
    mathematical model
    dispersive wave
    surface wave
    breaking wave
    Opis:
    Transformation of waves on sandy beaches, their breaking, set-up and run-up are the main factors contributing to fluctuations in the water table and groundwater flow. In this paper, the run-up mechanisms have been studied using analytical models. In contrast to the standard models, the waves approaching the shoreline are assumed to be dispersive and the equivalence of the non-linear and linear solutions for the extreme characteristics of wave run-up, such as the height of maximum run-up and the velocity of run-up, are used. A linear system of equations for the run-up of breaking waves is developed. This system is based on the application of the mild-slope equation in the deeper area, where waves are dispersive, while the linear equations of shallow water are applied close to the shoreline, where the water depth is a linear function of distance. The dissipation factor in the shallow water equation has been formulated using its resemblance to the mild-slope equation for a non-permeable sea bottom. Application of the method is illustrated for various bottom profiles and wave characteristics, and theoretical results compared well with experimental data. These solutions of the run-up phenomena will assist future studies on wave-induced beach groundwater flow.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2001, 43, 1
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
      Wyświetlanie 1-4 z 4

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