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    Wyświetlanie 1-4 z 4
    Tytuł:
    On the geometry of ocean surface waves
    Autorzy:
    Massel, S.R.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48766.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2011
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    air-sea interaction
    atmosphere-ocean interaction
    deep water
    dynamic factor
    geometry
    irregular wave
    marine environment
    ocean surface
    regular wave
    shallow water
    surface wave
    water motion
    wave breaking
    wave slope
    Opis:
    The factors influencing the atmosphere-ocean transfer of mass and momentum, as well as incipient wave breaking and the amount of energy dissipated due to breaking, are discussed in detail. In particular, the influence of directional spreading on the statistics of surface wave slopes and the area of the wind- roughened ocean surface is demonstrated. Theoretical analysis and comparison with the available experimental data show that unimodal directional spreading is not able to reproduce the observed ratio of the cross-wind/up-wind mean square slopes. Better agreement is achieved when bimodal directional spreading, consisting of two wrapped-Gaussian distributions, is applied. The bimodal form suggested by Ewans (1998) is used in the paper. Moreover, the formulae developed here show that the increase in the area due to surface waves is rather small for both regular and irregular waves.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2011, 53, 2
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Surface waves in deep and shallow waters
    Autorzy:
    Massel, S.R.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48826.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2010
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    surface wave
    deep
    shallow water
    dynamic factor
    marine environment
    atmosphere-ocean interaction
    ocean form
    air-sea interface
    hydrodynamics
    Opis:
    The motion of water due to surface waves is the most dynamic factor observed in the marine environment. In this review various aspects of the wave modelling of non-linear, steep surface waves and their role in the atmosphere-ocean interaction are discussed. Significant improvements in wave forecasting have been made in the last ten years. This is to a large extent related to substantial progress in the description of wind forcing and other processes, as well as to the more efficient use of satellite observations and assimilation methods. One striking observation is the increasing variety and complexity of models in which more physical processes are implemented, greater precision and resolution achieved and extended ranges of applicability demonstrated. However, in order to evaluate the applicability of particular models, comparison with high quality experimental data, collected in nature or under laboratory conditions, is necessary.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2010, 52, 1; 5-52
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Attenuation of wave-induced groundwater pressure in shallow water. Part 1
    Autorzy:
    Massel, S.R.
    Przyborska, A.
    Przyborski, M.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/49074.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2004
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    fluctuation
    oceanic water
    attenuation
    filtration
    groundwater pressure
    sandy beach
    beach ecosystem
    surface wave
    shallow water
    Opis:
    A coastal aquifer has a dynamic seaward boundary at the beach face where physical and ecological processes are influenced by oceanic water level fluctuations. Many basic groundwater concepts and the role of the impact of groundwater seepage on beach ecosystems are still poorly understood. Studies are needed to improve our understanding of the relationships between surface and subsurface flow processes on beaches. This is particularly helpful in clarifying the interaction of the physical processes, biodiversity and productivity of sandy beaches, sediment transport and coastal structure stability and modern beach nourishment techniques. As the estimation of infiltration into beach sand is very difficult to carry out under real sea conditions, a control led large-scale laboratory experiment was carried out in the LargeWave Channel in Hannover (Germany) as part of a project supported by the European Community (contract HPRI-CT-2001-00157). First part of the paper describes the technology applied in the experiment and reports some preliminary results.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2004, 46, 3
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
      Wyświetlanie 1-4 z 4

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