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    Wyświetlanie 1-7 z 7
    Tytuł:
    Modelling longshore sediment transport under asymmetric waves
    Autorzy:
    Ostrowski, R.
    Szmytkiewicz, M.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/49027.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2006
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    coastal zone
    hydrodynamic condition
    sandy sediment
    wave-current interaction
    sediment transport
    wave asymmetry
    Opis:
    Two wave theories are applied in calculations of longshore sediment transport rates: the second Stokes approximation and the cnoidal theory. These approaches are used to model sand motion in nearshore locations beyond and within the surf zone. Wave-current interaction in the nearbed layer and bed shear stresses are solved using a momentum integral method, whereas sediment transport is described by a three-layer model encompassing bedload, contact load and suspended load. Computational results for asymmetric waves are compared with the results obtained using linear wave theory and the conventional sediment transport models of Bailard (1981), Bijker (1971) and Van Rijn (1993).
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2006, 48, 3
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Longshore sediment transport at Golden Sands (Bulgaria)
    Autorzy:
    Nikolov, H.
    Trifonova, E.
    Cherneva, Z.
    Ostrowski, R.
    Skaja, M.
    Szmytkiewicz, M.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48714.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2006
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    coastal zone
    wave refraction
    wave diffraction
    Black Sea
    sandy beach
    sediment transport
    Golden Sands
    Bulgaria
    Opis:
    The paper presents the results of studies on the qualitative and quantitative features of the littoral drift at Golden Sands (Bulgaria), carried out jointly by Polish and Bulgarian researchers. The mathematical modelling of physical coastal processes took wave transformation (wave diffraction and refraction; the effects of shoaling and wave breaking) and longshore sediment transport into account. The computations were carried out for the mean statistical annual wave climate, determined on the basis of IO BAS wave data, simulated using the WAM method from long-term Black Sea wind data. The results of sediment transport computations clearly show that its direction off the Golden Sands shore is from north to south.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2006, 48, 3
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Modelling nearshore hydrodynamics and circulation under the impact of high waves at the coast of Varkiza in Saronic-Athens Gulf
    Autorzy:
    Belibassakis, K.A.
    Karathanasi, F.E.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47934.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2017
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    sediment transport
    shoreline
    modelling
    hydrodynamics
    Saronic Gulf
    coastal zone
    wind
    wave
    Opis:
    A plethora of physical parameters, such as hydro-, litho- and morpho-dynamic char- acteristics, are essential for understanding the response of coastal systems to intense sea states in terms of sediment transport and shoreline evolution. Nowadays, numerical models are extensively applied to meet the above needs and support coastal planning and management. In the present work, a 2DH dynamic modelling system is used for simulating the hydrodynamic and meteorological/ oceanographic characteristics of the Saronic Gulf, in order to examine circulation patterns and predict sediment transport phenomena under high wave conditions at the coast of Varkiza, a sandy beach in the southern Attica, Greece. Time series of wind and wave data were used as input at the open boundaries of the model domain while the model was calibrated and validated through (linear and directional) statistical measures with respect to in situ wave measurements, since there was lack of hydrodynamic data at the site of interest.The simulation period of the model was between January 3 and February 19, 2013, with consecutive high waves in-between. The good agreement of the numerical results from the wave and hydrodynamic model with in situ measurements confirmed the suitability of the model for the support of sediment transport rates at Varkiza coastal segment. Model results reveal that there is a counter-clockwise water circulation during high waves that contribute to the erosion of the examined beach, which is also confirmed by independent field measurements.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2017, 59, 3
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Influence of the climatic variations in the wind waves parameters on the alongshore sediment transport
    Autorzy:
    Divinsky, B.V.
    Kosyan, R.D.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2079275.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2020
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    climate variability
    wind wave
    coastal zone
    sediment transport
    numerical modelling
    Black Sea
    Opis:
    The purpose of this work was to analyze the influence of climatic variability of wind waves and swell parameters in the coastal zone on the sediment transport and to assess the contribution of the swell to the formation of alongshore fluxes. The object of research is the Anapa bay-bar (the Black Sea). Mathematical modeling has shown that in the Anapa bay-bar area the average annual wind waves and swell powers have significant interannual variability. For the period from 1979 to 2017, in the southern part of the bay-bar, there was a statistically significant decrease in the share of swell in the alongshore transport, directed from NW to SE, in the central part – an increase in the contribution of swell to the total sediment flow from SE to NW, in the northern part – probable increase in flows to NW and decrease – to SE. Such a dynamic is consistent, in general, with experimental observations of the processes of erosion and accumulation of beach-forming material along the Anapa bay-bar coastline. A separate description of the bottom sediment fluxes under the influence of wind waves and swell made it possible to explain the fluctuations of the coastline over a climatic period.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2020, 62, 2; 190-199
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Driving forces of sandy sediment transport beyond the surf zone
    Autorzy:
    Stella, M.
    Ostrowski, R.
    Szmytkiewicz, P.
    Kapinski, J.
    Marcinkowski, T.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47878.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2019
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    sandy sediment
    sediment transport
    surf zone
    wave-current interaction
    roughness
    coastal zone
    Baltic Sea
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2019, 61, 1
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    A quasi phase-resolving model of net sand transport and short-term cross-shore profile evolution
    Autorzy:
    Ostrowski, R.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48565.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2003
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    coastal zone
    hydrodynamics
    wave-current condition
    cross-shore profile
    Baltic Sea
    evolution
    modelling
    sand transport
    sediment transport
    hydrodynamic impact
    Opis:
    A way of modelling of the net sediment transport rate on a cross-shore profile and the resulting sea bed changes is presented. In the sediment transport computations, a three-layer model with a description of the bedload based on the water-soil mixture theory by Kaczmarek& Ostrowski (1998, 2002) is used. The modelling system is applied to wave-current conditions variable over the cross-shore profile, and determined using the computational frameworkof Szmytkiewicz (2002a, b). The sediment transport module incorporates the asymmetric wave approaches as proposed by Ostrowski (2002). Model simulations have been produced for uniformly sloped and multi-bar initial cross-shore profiles. Some of the model results are compared with the IBW PAN (Institute of Hydroengineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences) field data collected at the Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2003, 45, 2
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Development of the sandy coast: Hydrodynamic and morphodynamic conditions (on the example of the Eastern Gulf of Finland)
    Autorzy:
    Divinsky, B.V.
    Ryabchuk, D.V.
    Kosyan, R.D.
    Sergeev, A.Y.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2078924.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2021
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    sandy coast
    coastal zone
    climate change
    hydrodynamic condition
    morphodynamic condition
    sea level
    surface wave
    sediment transport
    numerical modelling
    Finland Gulf
    Opis:
    Forecasting the coastal zone development under possible climatic changes and technogenic impact is an extremely important task. This forecasting is based on our understanding of the mechanism of the hydrodynamic processes impact on the coastal zone. The goal of this work is to describe the hydrodynamic conditions (currents, sea level, surface waves) of coastal waters and to assess the influence of hydrodynamic parameters on the general dynamics of the beach. The object of this study is a part of the southern coastal zone of the Gulf of Finland (Baltic Sea). The method of research is a full-scale experiment and mathematical modeling. The initial data for the analysis are climatic characteristics of the hydrodynamic regime of the sea (velocity and direction of currents, sea level, integral parameters of wind seas and swell), as well as interannual variations in the position of the coastline in the region of the Izhora village in the eastern part of the Gulf of Finland. Interannual variations in hydrodynamic parameters and volumes of bottom material transported under the influence of wind seas and swell were estimated. Main conclusion: swell waves determine the general background in the patterns of the bottom material transport, and the contribution of wind seas is in the formation of beach properties, namely, the accumulation or decrease of beach material
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2021, 63, 2; 214-226
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
      Wyświetlanie 1-7 z 7

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