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    Wyświetlanie 1-6 z 6
    Tytuł:
    Influence of the climatic variations in the wind waves parameters on the alongshore sediment transport
    Autorzy:
    Divinsky, B.V.
    Kosyan, R.D.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2079275.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2020
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    climate variability
    wind wave
    coastal zone
    sediment transport
    numerical modelling
    Black Sea
    Opis:
    The purpose of this work was to analyze the influence of climatic variability of wind waves and swell parameters in the coastal zone on the sediment transport and to assess the contribution of the swell to the formation of alongshore fluxes. The object of research is the Anapa bay-bar (the Black Sea). Mathematical modeling has shown that in the Anapa bay-bar area the average annual wind waves and swell powers have significant interannual variability. For the period from 1979 to 2017, in the southern part of the bay-bar, there was a statistically significant decrease in the share of swell in the alongshore transport, directed from NW to SE, in the central part – an increase in the contribution of swell to the total sediment flow from SE to NW, in the northern part – probable increase in flows to NW and decrease – to SE. Such a dynamic is consistent, in general, with experimental observations of the processes of erosion and accumulation of beach-forming material along the Anapa bay-bar coastline. A separate description of the bottom sediment fluxes under the influence of wind waves and swell made it possible to explain the fluctuations of the coastline over a climatic period.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2020, 62, 2; 190-199
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Modelling nearshore hydrodynamics and circulation under the impact of high waves at the coast of Varkiza in Saronic-Athens Gulf
    Autorzy:
    Belibassakis, K.A.
    Karathanasi, F.E.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47934.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2017
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    sediment transport
    shoreline
    modelling
    hydrodynamics
    Saronic Gulf
    coastal zone
    wind
    wave
    Opis:
    A plethora of physical parameters, such as hydro-, litho- and morpho-dynamic char- acteristics, are essential for understanding the response of coastal systems to intense sea states in terms of sediment transport and shoreline evolution. Nowadays, numerical models are extensively applied to meet the above needs and support coastal planning and management. In the present work, a 2DH dynamic modelling system is used for simulating the hydrodynamic and meteorological/ oceanographic characteristics of the Saronic Gulf, in order to examine circulation patterns and predict sediment transport phenomena under high wave conditions at the coast of Varkiza, a sandy beach in the southern Attica, Greece. Time series of wind and wave data were used as input at the open boundaries of the model domain while the model was calibrated and validated through (linear and directional) statistical measures with respect to in situ wave measurements, since there was lack of hydrodynamic data at the site of interest.The simulation period of the model was between January 3 and February 19, 2013, with consecutive high waves in-between. The good agreement of the numerical results from the wave and hydrodynamic model with in situ measurements confirmed the suitability of the model for the support of sediment transport rates at Varkiza coastal segment. Model results reveal that there is a counter-clockwise water circulation during high waves that contribute to the erosion of the examined beach, which is also confirmed by independent field measurements.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2017, 59, 3
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Motion of water and sediment due to non-breaking waves in the swash zone
    Autorzy:
    Kapinski, J.
    Ostrowski, R.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48514.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2012
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    water motion
    sediment
    non-breaking wave
    flow velocity
    sediment transport
    spatial variability
    sandy shore
    swash zone
    Baltic Sea
    shear stress
    Opis:
    A long wave run-up theory is applied to the modelling of wave-induced flow velocities, sediment transport rates and bottom changes in a swash zone. First, the properties of the water tongue motion and the resulting lithodynamic response are analysed theoretically. Next, an attempt is made to run the model for the natural conditions encountered on the southern Baltic Sea coast. The Lagrangian swash velocities are used to determine the Eulerian phase-resolved bed shear stresses with a momentum integral method, after which the motion of sand is described by the use of a two-layer model, comprising bedload and nearbed suspended load. Seabed evolution is then found from the spatial variability of the net sediment transport rates. The results presented are limited to cases of the small-amplitude waves that seem to be responsible for accretion on beaches.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2012, 54, 2
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Sediment transport beyond the surf zone under waves and currents of the non-tidal sea: Lubiatowo (Poland) case study
    Autorzy:
    Ostrowski, R.
    Stella, M.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241109.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2016
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
    Tematy:
    wave-induced nearbed oscillations
    sea currents
    wind-driven current
    sand grain diameter
    bed shear stress
    friction velocity
    sediment transport
    Opis:
    The paper deals with the sandy coastal zone at Lubiatowo in Poland (the south Baltic Sea). The study comprises experimental and theoretical investigations of hydrodynamic and lithodynamic processes in the coastal region located close to the seaward boundary of the surf zone and beyond the surf zone. The analysis is based on field data collected at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo. The data consist of wind velocity reconstructed from the long-term wave climate, deep-water wave buoy records and sea bottom soil parameters. Nearbed flow velocities induced by waves and currents, as well as bed shear stresses are theoretically modelled for various conditions to determine sediment motion regimes in the considered area. The paper discusses the possibility of occasional intensive sediment transport and the occurrence of distinct sea bed changes at bigger water depths.
    Źródło:
    Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2016, 63, 1; 63-77
    1231-3726
    Pojawia się w:
    Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Variability of Hydrodynamic and Lithodynamic Coastal Processes in the East Part of the Gulf of Gdańsk
    Autorzy:
    Ostrowski, R.
    Pruszak, Z.
    Skaja, M.
    Szmytkiewicz, M.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241442.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2010
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
    Tematy:
    sediment transport
    waves
    currents
    deep-water climate
    Opis:
    The paper presents new findings concerning motion of water and sediment in the coastal zone of the east part of the Gulf of Gdańsk, from the Vistula River mouth at Świbno (Poland) to Cape Taran (Russia, Kaliningrad Oblast). The presented study deals with spatial variability of parameters of hydrodynamic and lithodynamic processes which have been subject to theoretical modelling. For the considered coastal segment, deep-water wave conditions reconstructed for a 44-year period have been analysed and transformed to the nearshore zone. Next, velocities of wave-driven longshore currents for the mean statistical year have been calculated, along with the longshore sediment transport rates. Regarding the net longshore sand motion, its detected direction is from Cape Taran towards the Vistula Spit. Very high annual rates of longshore sediment transport have been obtained for the coastal segment at Sambian Peninsula. These rates decrease considerably along the Vistula Spit, reaching zero at a distance of about one third of the Polish part of the Spit, measured from its root. At this location, the net longshore sediment transport (resulting from net longshore wave-current impact) reverses from westward to eastward.
    Źródło:
    Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2010, 57, 2; 139-153
    1231-3726
    Pojawia się w:
    Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Sediment Transport Issues Related to a Planned Cross-cut through the Vistula Spit, Poland
    Autorzy:
    Kaczmarek, L. M.
    Ostrowski, R.
    Szmytkiewicz, M.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241444.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2010
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
    Tematy:
    Vistula Spit
    cross-cut
    waves
    sediment transport
    breakwaters
    shoreline changes
    Opis:
    In order to make a navigable connection between the Vistula Lagoon and the Baltic Sea independent of an attitude of the Russian authorities, a cross-cut in the Polish part of the Vistula Spit is planned. The cross-cut will constitute an alternative waterway with respect to the existing one, leading through the Pilawa Strait which belongs to the Russian territorial waters. The new outlet will require breakwaters and an approach channel on the open sea side, as well as a waterway across the Vistula Lagoon to the harbour of Elbląg. The planned cross-cut is located about 3 km from the root of the Vistula Spit, at Skowronki village. The paper comprises an analysis of regional wave parameters in a mean statistical year on the basis of the Baltic wave climate reconstructed for the period of 44 years, together with a calculation of the longshore sediment transport rates. An influence of the planned coastal structures on the shoreline evolution, as well as the approach channel silting-up rates, in the first 10 years after the construction of the cross-cut, are estimated. An optimised layout of the planned approach channel and lengths of the planned breakwaters are recommended to facilitate the maintenance of the coast and the new waterway.
    Źródło:
    Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2010, 57, 2; 119-137
    1231-3726
    Pojawia się w:
    Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
      Wyświetlanie 1-6 z 6

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