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    Tytuł:
    Motion of water and sediment due to non-breaking waves in the swash zone
    Autorzy:
    Kapinski, J.
    Ostrowski, R.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48514.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2012
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    water motion
    sediment
    non-breaking wave
    flow velocity
    sediment transport
    spatial variability
    sandy shore
    swash zone
    Baltic Sea
    shear stress
    Opis:
    A long wave run-up theory is applied to the modelling of wave-induced flow velocities, sediment transport rates and bottom changes in a swash zone. First, the properties of the water tongue motion and the resulting lithodynamic response are analysed theoretically. Next, an attempt is made to run the model for the natural conditions encountered on the southern Baltic Sea coast. The Lagrangian swash velocities are used to determine the Eulerian phase-resolved bed shear stresses with a momentum integral method, after which the motion of sand is described by the use of a two-layer model, comprising bedload and nearbed suspended load. Seabed evolution is then found from the spatial variability of the net sediment transport rates. The results presented are limited to cases of the small-amplitude waves that seem to be responsible for accretion on beaches.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2012, 54, 2
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Currents and waves in the Northern Gulf of Riga: measurement and long-term hindcast
    Autorzy:
    Suursaar, U.
    Kullas, T.
    Aps, R.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47862.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2012
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    hydrodynamic modelling
    water exchange
    wave
    Riga Gulf
    Baltic Sea
    long-term hindcast
    wave measurement
    wind force
    wind condition
    atmospheric circulation
    Opis:
    Based on measurements of waves and currents obtained for a period of 302 days with a bottom-mounted RDCP (Recording Doppler Current Profiler) at two differently exposed locations, a model for significant wave height was calibrated separately for those locations; in addition, the Gulf of Riga-Vainameri 2D model was validated, and the hydrodynamic conditions were studied. Using wind forcing data from the Kihnu meteorological station, a set of current, water exchange and wave hindcasts were obtained for the period 1966–2011. Current patterns in the Gulf and in the straits were wind-dependent with characteristic wind switch directions. The Matsi coast was prone to upwelling in persistent northerly wind conditions. During the hindcast period, currents increased along the Koiguste coast and in the Suur Strait, waves decreased noticeably off Koiguste but fluctuated without a clear linear trend near Matsi. The spatially contrasting results for differently exposed coasts were related to the corresponding variations in local wind conditions and to changes in atmospheric circulation patterns over northern Europe.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2012, 54, 3
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Periodic variability of currents induced by topographically trapped waves in the coastal zone in the Gulf of Finland
    Autorzy:
    Talpsepp, L.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48759.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2006
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    trapped wave
    Sopot
    current
    water exchange
    Finland Gulf
    topographical wave
    Pakri Bay
    conference
    Baltic Sea
    Estonia
    Opis:
    The aim of this paper is to examine the water exchange regime between the bays of northern Estonia (Pakri Bay, Ihasalu Bay and Muuga Bay) and the open part of the Gulf of Finland. To this end, the current measurements and CTD-castings performed at the border of the bays and the open part of the Gulf of Finland in summer 1994, 1995–96 and 1997 are analysed. All the current measurements displayed one feature in common: the existence of periodic variability with a current amplitude of between 5 and 25 cm s−1 and a variability period of 3–4 days (68 hours in Pakri Bay, 72 hours in Muuga Bay and 78 hours in Ihasalu Bay). The amplitudes of this variability differed during different time periods of the experiment and in different parts of the southern Gulf of Finland. The hypothesis was propounded that this variability is the result of bottom-trapped waves, as had been found in many other regions of the Baltic Sea (Aitsam & Talpsepp 1982, Talpsepp 1983). To interpret the results of the measurements, a model of bottom-trapped waves for this region was used. This was the short-wave version of Huthnance’s (1978) numerical model of coastal-trapped waves, according to which the wave parameters for the experimental regions were calculated. Comparison of the model and the measurements implies that coastal-trapped waves do exist off the southern coast of the Gulf of Finland.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2006, 48, S
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Nonlinear ship wake waves as a model of rogue waves and a source of danger to the coastal environment: a review
    Autorzy:
    Soomere, T.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48354.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2006
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    Sopot
    nonlinear ship
    wave
    extreme wave
    shallow water wave
    conference
    Baltic Sea
    marine ecosystem
    coastal environment
    ship traffic
    speed ship
    coastal area
    Opis:
    A substantial part of the energy of wake waves from high-speed ships sailing in shallow water is concentrated in nonlinear components which at times have a solitonic nature. Recent results of investigations into solitonic wave interactions within the framework of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation and their implications for rogue wave theory are reviewed. A surface elevation four times as high as the counterparts occurs if the properties of the interacting waves are specifically balanced. The slope of the water surface may increase eightfold. The resulting structure may persist for a long time. Nonlinear wake components may exert a considerable influence on the marine ecosystem in coastal areas.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2006, 48, S
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Flow, waves and water exchange in the Suur Strait, Gulf of Riga, in 2008
    Autorzy:
    Raudsepp, U.
    Laanemets, J.
    Haran, G.
    Alari, V.
    Pavelson, J.
    Kouts, T.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/49038.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2011
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    flow
    wave
    water exchange
    Suur Strait
    Riga Gulf
    modelling
    shear velocity
    Baltic Sea
    wind
    wind condition
    storm
    wave heigh
    sediment
    seasonal cycle
    horizontal distribution
    outflow
    Opis:
    Wind, flow and wave measurements were performed in November–December in 2008 in the relatively narrow and shallow Suur Strait connecting the waters of the V¨ainameri and the Gulf of Riga. During the measurement period wind conditions were extremely variable, including a severe storm on 23 November. The flow speed along the strait varied between ±0.2 m s−1, except for the 0.4 m s−1 that occurred after the storm as a result of the sea level gradient. The mean and maximum significant wave heights were 0.53 m and 1.6 m respectively. Because of their longer fetch, southerly winds generated higher waves in the strait than winds from the north. All wave events caused by the stronger southerly winds induced sediment resuspension, whereas the current-induced shear velocity slightly exceeded the critical value for resuspension only when the current speed was 0.4 m s−1. A triplenested two-dimensional high resolution (100 m in the Suur Strait) circulation model and the SWAN wave model were used to simulate water exchange in 2008 and the wave-induced shear velocity field in the Suur Strait respectively. Circulation model simulations demonstrated that water exchange was highly variable, that cumulative transport followed an evident seasonal cycle, and that there was an gross annual outflow of 23 km3 from the Gulf of Riga. The horizontal distribution of waveinduced shear velocity during the strong southerly wind event indicated large shear velocities and substantial horizontal variability. The shear velocities were less than the critical value for resuspension in the deep area of the Suur Strait.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2011, 53, 1
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Wind influence on the formation of nearshore currents in the southern Baltic: mumerical modelling results
    Autorzy:
    Sokolov, A.
    Chubarenko, B.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241238.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2012
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
    Tematy:
    currents
    waves
    numerical modelling
    coastal zone
    Baltic Sea
    Opis:
    A two-dimensional numerical model was used for a simulation of vertical average longshore currents generated by both wind friction and wind-wave action in the nearshore zone. The modelling domain includes the southern part of the Baltic Proper (all boundaries were closed). Wind, uniform in space and varying in time, was the only forcing in the model. The correlation coefficient higher than 0.8 was obtained by model calibration versus the field measurements of currents conducted at the Lubiatowo field station (southern Baltic) during about 1.5 months in 2006. Comparative simulations of total currents including both wind-induced drift and wave components, and of total currents including only a wind-induced drift component, showed that the input of the drift component into currents in the nearshore zone is greater than commonly believed. Wind-induced drift strongly dominates outside the zone of wave transformation, and its input into the total resulting currents remains noticeable even in a zone between the shoreline and the depth of the first wave breaking. Thus, wind-induced drift constitutes up to 50% of the resulting longshore currents for longshore winds and no less than 20% of the longshore component of currents for winds at 45 degrees to the longshore direction.
    Źródło:
    Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2012, 59, 1-2; 37-48
    1231-3726
    Pojawia się w:
    Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Application of neural networks to the prediction of significant wave height at selected locations on the Baltic Sea
    Autorzy:
    Paplińska-Swerpel, B.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/240964.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2006
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
    Tematy:
    sea wave forecast
    neural networks
    sea waves
    Baltic Sea
    Opis:
    This paper describes the application of methodology based on the artificial neural network technique to make short-term wave forecasts. The neural network model is used to predict significant wave height at a selected location on the Baltic Sea based on wave and/or wind data at ten points scattered on the sea. High quality hindcast data were used in the process of developing the forecast methodology. The data originated from the WAM4 wave model. The results show that the neural network technique allowed significant wave height to be predicted accurately. The agreement obtained by a comparison with a testing data set was sufficiently good to confirm the effectiveness of this approach.
    Źródło:
    Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2006, 53, 3; 183-201
    1231-3726
    Pojawia się w:
    Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Combined impact of summer heat waves and coastal upwelling in the Baltic Sea
    Autorzy:
    Suursaar, U.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2079092.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2020
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    global warming
    heat wave
    coastal upwelling
    water temperature
    salinity
    satellite image
    Finland Gulf
    Baltic Sea
    Opis:
    Under warming climates, heat waves (HWs) have occurred in increasing intensity in Europe. Also, public interest towards HWs has considerably increased over the last decades. The paper discusses the manifestations of the summer 2014 HW and simultaneously occurring coastal upwelling (CU) events in the Gulf of Finland. Caused by an anticyclonic weather pattern and persisting easterly winds, CUs evolved along the southern coast of the Gulf in four episodes from June to August. Based on data from coastal weather stations, 115 days-long measurements with a Recording Doppler Current Profiler (RDCP) oceanographic complex and sea surface temperature (SST) satellite images, the partly opposing impacts of these events are analysed. Occurring on the background of a marine HW (up to 26°C), the CU-forced SST variations reached about 20 degrees. At the 10 m deep RDCP mooring location, a drop from 21.5 to 2.9°C occurred within 60 hours. Salinity varied between 3.6 and 6.2 and an alongshore coastal jet was observed; the statistically preferred westerly current frequently flowed against the wind. Locally, the cooling effect of the CUs occasionally mitigated the overheating effects by the HWs both in the sea and on the marine-land boundary. However, in the elongated channel-like Gulf of Finland, upwelling at one coast is usually paired with downwelling at the opposite coast, and simultaneously or subsequently occurring HWs and CUs effectively contribute to heat transfer from the atmosphere to the water mass. Rising extremes of HWs and rapid variations by CUs may put the ecosystems under increasing stress.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2020, 62, 4PA; 511-524
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Wave analysis for two-point measurements in the Polish EEZ of the Baltic Sea
    Analiza falowania dla pomiarów dwupunktowych na obszarze polskiej wyłącznej strefy ekonomicznej Morza Bałtyckiego
    Autorzy:
    Kapiński, J.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/111423.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2016
    Wydawca:
    Instytut Morski w Gdańsku
    Tematy:
    simultaneous two-point wave measurements
    waves at open sea
    ADCP instruments
    Baltic Sea
    Polish EEZ
    spatial variability of wave field
    statistical analysis of sea waves
    jednoczesne pomiary ruchu falowego w dwóch punktach
    fale na otwartym morzu
    przyrządy pomiarowe typu ADCP
    Morze Bałtyckie
    Polska Wyłączna Strefa Ekonomiczna
    przestrzenna zmienność pola falowego
    statystyczna analiza fal morskich
    Opis:
    Results of field measurements of surface gravity waves conducted for two neighbouring points at the Baltic Sea were compared. However, deep-water conditions are met there, noticeable differences for wave heights, periods and directions can be observed. In some cases they increase with the magnitudes of wave parameters, in other ones they remain constant. These two-point measurements indicate that the wave field can be differential even within small aquatic sites of the open sea, which, for instance, can have an effect on offshore structure stability or on a wave energy productivity. The aim of this paper is to point out the importance of this issue.
    W pracy porównano wyniki pomiarów terenowych na Morzu Bałtyckim dla grawitacyjnych fal powierzchniowych przeprowadzonych w dwóch sąsiadujących ze sobą punktach. Mimo, że były tam spełnione warunki głębokowodne, zaobserwowano znaczne różnice wysokości, okresów i kierunków fal. W niektórych przypadkach rosły one wraz ze wzrostem wielkości analizowanych parametrów falowych, w innych zaś pozostawały niezmienne. Wykonane dwupunktowe pomiary wskazują na fakt, że pola falowe mogą się zauważalnie różnić nawet na małych obszarach otwartego morza, co na przykład może mieć wpływ na stabilność konstrukcji pełnomorskich lub wydajność generatorów energii falowej. Zwrócenie uwagi na to zagadnienie jest głównym celem niniejszego artykułu.
    Źródło:
    Biuletyn Instytutu Morskiego w Gdańsku; 2016, 31, 1; 67-72
    1230-7424
    2450-5536
    Pojawia się w:
    Biuletyn Instytutu Morskiego w Gdańsku
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
    Tytuł:
    Waves, currents and sea level variations along the Letipea - Sillamäe coastal section of the Southern Gulf of Finland
    Autorzy:
    Suursaar, U.
    Powiązania:
    https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48913.pdf
    Data publikacji:
    2010
    Wydawca:
    Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
    Tematy:
    wave
    variation
    hydrodynamic condition
    measurement
    Doppler current prolifer
    calibration
    semi-empirical hindcast
    water parameter
    upwelling
    coastal jet
    climate change
    Baltic Sea
    Letipea-Sillamae coastal section
    Finland Gulf
    Opis:
    Variations in the hydrodynamic conditions were studied on the basis of 336 days of measurements with a Doppler current profiler. With wave data as a calibration reference, a semi-empirical hindcast of wave parameters is presented in the fetch- limited near-shore area for the period 1966–2008. A resultant 4–6 cm s−1 westward current dominated along the coast. Occasional fast sub-surface westward currents under modest wind forcing, as well as asymmetrical vertical profiles for westward and eastward currents indicated the influence of upwelling-related baroclinic coastal jets. The average frequency of upwelling was estimated at 17%; some of the events were identified in near-homothermic winter conditions on the basis of salinity and multi-layer flow records. While the mean sea level trend at Narva-Jõesuu roughly approximated the global estimates for 1899–2009, the annual maximum sea level increase was 5–8 mm yr−1. Both mean and maximum wave heights declined as a result of decreasing winds from the north.
    Źródło:
    Oceanologia; 2010, 52, 3; 391-416
    0078-3234
    Pojawia się w:
    Oceanologia
    Dostawca treści:
    Biblioteka Nauki
    Artykuł
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