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Wyświetlanie 1-15 z 23
Tytuł:
Certain solutions of periodic long waves with non-linear dispersion
Autorzy:
Chybicki, W.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241183.pdf
Data publikacji:
2004
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
long waves
Langrangian description
Opis:
The paper describes some special solutions of the long water waves theory proposed by Wilde. The wave equation is derived with the help of a variational formulation of the problem with the Langrangian being the difference between the kinetic and potential energies. In order to look for travelling wave solutions the simple transformation is made. The solutions have been found in the same way as in the KdV equation. Solutions for different wave amplitudes are presented in the paper. The special cases of solutions are solitary waves. It is proved that bounded solutions of an equation can represent periodic or solitary waves and both length and velocity of waves increase when the height of waves increases.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2004, 51, 4; 307-315
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Non-linear water waves - experiments and theory
Autorzy:
Wilde, P.
Sobierajski, E.
Sobczak, Ł.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241057.pdf
Data publikacji:
2001
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
shallow water waves
laboratory experiments
Opis:
The paper concems laboratory experiments on shallow water waves. The waves in our flume were generated as programmed groups, with gentle fading-in and fading-out of amplitudes of the wavemaker's piston's motions. The higher harmonic components have been considered in the motion. Their influence on characteristics of generated waves has also been studied. The measurements were carried out at 6 cross sections along the propagation path; both wave profiles and velocities were recorded. As a description of phenomena, the wave profiles were approximated by harmonic com-ponents according to the Stokes solution. It was noted, that parameters of harmonic components change along the propagation path; there are energy transfers between them. The higher harmonic components are more significant for the description of wave profiles, than for the velocities. The results of the experiments were used in verifications in a research program on the theoretical description and numerical al-gorithm for shallow water waves generated and propagated in a flume.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2001, 48, 2; 107-128
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Modelling of gravity waves in water of finite depth
Autorzy:
Chybicki, W.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241311.pdf
Data publikacji:
2004
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
gravity waves
Hamilton principle
Lagrangian description
Opis:
An extension of shallow water theory proposed by Wilde (Wilde, Chybicki 2000), for finite water depth and based on the Lagrangian type formalism is presented. As in Bussinesq-type models the vertical dimension is being eliminated and the horizontal displacement is expanded in the even power series of vertical variable Y, but only two terms - with power null and two are taken into account. Based on continuity equation, vertical displacement is expressed in terms of horizontal displacement and its derivatives. The equations of motion are derived from a Hamilton principle applied to Lagrangian function being a difference of kinetic and potential energy. In order to solve the set of governing equations a direct method of variational calculus has been applied. The solutions preserve total energy. The numerical simulations have been verified experimentally, in terms of wave measurements in the flume, for various wave heights and ratios of wavelength to water depth, showing good conformity between measured and calculated values. The theory presented here can also be applied for the case of varying depth.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2004, 51, 3; 205-224
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Long water waves as a structure fluid interaction problem
Autorzy:
Wilde, P.
Chybicki, W.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241470.pdf
Data publikacji:
2004
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
long waves
Lagrangian description
Hamilton principle
Opis:
The paper describes a new formulation of the theory of long shallow water waves, which is based on the fundamental assumption that vertical material lines of fluid remain vertical during the entire motion. To make the problem consistent from the point of view of physics the case of waves in a flume due to the motion of a piston type generator is considered. At the piston the material line of water particles remains vertical during the entire motion and thus the generation follows the assumption in the description of the motion of water in the flume. Wave equations are derived with the help of a variational formulation of the problem in a material description. The Lagrangian is the difference between the kinetic and potential energies of the fluid and the mechanical system that describes a very simplified wave generator. The basic assumption simplifies the geometry of the displacement field. The definitions of generalized forces follow from variational calculus. The procedure ensures that the energy is preserved. A simple discrete formulation of the problem is based on the finite element method and the corresponding approximate expressions for energies.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2004, 51, 2; 95-118
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Variability of Hydrodynamic and Lithodynamic Coastal Processes in the East Part of the Gulf of Gdańsk
Autorzy:
Ostrowski, R.
Pruszak, Z.
Skaja, M.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241442.pdf
Data publikacji:
2010
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
sediment transport
waves
currents
deep-water climate
Opis:
The paper presents new findings concerning motion of water and sediment in the coastal zone of the east part of the Gulf of Gdańsk, from the Vistula River mouth at Świbno (Poland) to Cape Taran (Russia, Kaliningrad Oblast). The presented study deals with spatial variability of parameters of hydrodynamic and lithodynamic processes which have been subject to theoretical modelling. For the considered coastal segment, deep-water wave conditions reconstructed for a 44-year period have been analysed and transformed to the nearshore zone. Next, velocities of wave-driven longshore currents for the mean statistical year have been calculated, along with the longshore sediment transport rates. Regarding the net longshore sand motion, its detected direction is from Cape Taran towards the Vistula Spit. Very high annual rates of longshore sediment transport have been obtained for the coastal segment at Sambian Peninsula. These rates decrease considerably along the Vistula Spit, reaching zero at a distance of about one third of the Polish part of the Spit, measured from its root. At this location, the net longshore sediment transport (resulting from net longshore wave-current impact) reverses from westward to eastward.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2010, 57, 2; 139-153
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Boussinesq-type Equations for Long Waves in Water of Variable Depth
Autorzy:
Szmidt, K.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241151.pdf
Data publikacji:
2011
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
long waves
wave propagation
variable water depth
Opis:
The paper deals with the problem of the transformation of long gravitational waves propagating in water of variable depth. The main attention of the paper is focused on the derivation of equations describing this phenomenon. These equations are derived under the assumption that the non-viscous fluid is incompressible and rotation free, and that the fluid velocity components may be expressed in the form of the power series expansions with respect to the water depth. This procedure makes it possible to transform the original two-dimensional problem into a one-dimensional one, in which all unknown variables depend on time and a horizontal coordinate. The partial differential equations derived correspond to the conservation of mass and momentum. The solution of these equations is constructed by the finite difference method and an approximate discrete integration in the time domain. In order to estimate the accuracy of this formulation, theoretical results obtained for a specific problem were compared with experimental measurements carried out in a laboratory flume. The comparison shows that the proposed theoretical formulation is an accurate description of long waves propagating in water of variable depth.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2011, 58, 1-4; 3-21
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Specific features of sea waves in the Pomeranian Bay
Autorzy:
Paplińska, B.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241037.pdf
Data publikacji:
2001
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
sea waves
Pomeranian Bay
numerical models
wave measurements
Opis:
The paper concerns investigations of regional variability of the wave climate in the Pomeranian Bay. Analysis is based on the wave measurements taken during a period of four months and numerical wave model WAM4 results. The calculations covered period of 3 months in 1997 (Oct., Nov., Dec.) and two years: 1998,1999. Analysis of wave modelling results shows that wave fields are not homogeneous in the whole area. The gradual increase (up to 50%) of yearly mean values of selected wave parameters can be observed going from the south-westerly of the Bay to north-easterly direction. Directional distribution of significant wave height is determined by wind climate and shape of the basin and prevails in easterly, south-easterly, south-westerly directions.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2001, 48, 2; 55-72
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Finite Difference Analysis of Surface Wave Scattering by Underwater Rectangular Obstacles
Autorzy:
Szmidt, K.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241339.pdf
Data publikacji:
2010
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
water wave
scattering of waves
finite difference method
Opis:
This paper deals with the problem of the scattering of surface water waves by underwater obstacles. The main goal of the investigations is to estimate the efficiency of such structures in protecting sea shelf zones from open sea waves. A useful measure of the protection is the ratio of the square of the amplitude of the transmitted wave to the square of the amplitude of the arriving wave. The problem is formulated in terms of the finite difference method. It is shown that the discrete approach to the problem leads to eigenvalue problems for two matrices resulting from the discrete description. As compared to analytical formulation, the discrete method may be convenient in application to unsteady problems and obstacles of complicated geometry.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2010, 57, 3-4; 179-198
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
On the Transformation of Long Gravitational Waves in a Region of Variable Water Depth: a Comparison of Theory and Experiment
Autorzy:
Szmidt, K.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241424.pdf
Data publikacji:
2007
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
shallow water
nonlinear waves
non-uniform water depth
Opis:
The paper describes investigations on transformation of long gravitational waves in water of variable depth with reflection of the waves from a shelf barrier. In the model considered, a long water wave arrives from an area of constant water depth to an area of constant, smaller water depth, where it reflects at a vertical wall. The analysis is confined to a finite fluid domain, relevant to experimental investigations in a laboratory flume. In theoretical analysis of the phenomenon, we follow a non-linear shallow water approximation to the problem considered. The fundamental equations of fluid motion are derived with the help of a standard variational procedure in a material system of coordinates. The equations proved to be a reasonable approximation to a description of the long waves propagating in fluid with small variation of its depth. In the discussed case of reflection of such waves from a vertical barrier, however, the motion of the fluid is more complicated and therefore the long water wave theory does not deliver as good results as in the case of pure propagation of the waves. The primary objective of this paper is thus to compare the theoretical solution proposed with data obtained in experiments, and to answer the question about accuracy and applicability of the theoretical model in the description of the problem investigated.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2007, 54, 2; 137-158
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
On Vertical Variations of Wave-Induced Radiation Stress Tensor
Autorzy:
Chybicki, W.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241081.pdf
Data publikacji:
2008
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
radiation stress
linear water waves
three-dimensional flow
Opis:
The flux of momentum generated by an incident wave field, commonly known as the radiation stress, plays an important role in near-shore water circulation. Many researchers use the concept of radiation stress in the calculation of cross-shore and long-shore circulation. In this paper, the traditional concept is extended to the case of vertical variation of radiation stress, and analitycal expressions for the vertical profile of radiation stress are derived. The distributions of the wave-induced radiation stress tensor with depth are studied by linear wave theory. The application of radiation stress with vertical variation is expected to play an important role in further studies of the near-shore system. Information regarding the vertical distribution of the radiation stress components ( and ) resulting from obliquely incident, shoaling waves is provided. The results show that the vertical variations of the wave-induced radiation stress tensor are significant as regards of wave propagation.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2008, 55, 3-4; 83-93
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
On the Description of Long Water Waves in Material Variables
Autorzy:
Szmidt, K.
Hedzielski, B.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241085.pdf
Data publikacji:
2009
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
long waves
shallow water
unsteady motion
sloping beach
Opis:
Shallow water equations formulated in material variables are presented in this paper. In the model considered, a three-dimensional physical problem is substituted by a two-dimensional one describing a transformation of long waves in water of variable depth. The latter is obtained by means of the assumption that a vertical column of water particles remains vertical during the entire motion of the fluid. Under the assumption of small, continuous variation of the water depth, the equations for gravity waves are derived through Hamilton's principle formulated in terms of the material coordinates. This formulation ensures the conservation of mechanical energy. The approximation depends on the wave parameters as well as on the bed bathymetry. The latter may influence a solution of the model decisively; thus, one should be careful in applying the description to complicated geometries of fluid domains encountered in engineering practice.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2009, 56, 1-2; 63-83
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Simple water waves in Lagrangian description
Autorzy:
Chybicki, W.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241122.pdf
Data publikacji:
2006
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
long waves
Riemann invariants
simple wave
Langrangian description
Opis:
Details of the model of long water waves in the Lagrangian description are presented. The equation of motion is derived from variational formulation of the problem. Only two important cases are considered: when the water depth changes uniformly in space or the depth is constant. For quasilinear hyperbolic system obtained in this description the Riemann invariants and equation of simple waves are found. For constant depth, the Riemann invariants are exactly the same as in the Euler description, however, the velocity of wave propagation is different. In case of uniform slope the velocity, as well as the Riemann invariants are different. In the Lagrangian description the free surface is described in parametric form.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2006, 53, 4; 381-387
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Wind influence on the formation of nearshore currents in the southern Baltic: mumerical modelling results
Autorzy:
Sokolov, A.
Chubarenko, B.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241238.pdf
Data publikacji:
2012
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
currents
waves
numerical modelling
coastal zone
Baltic Sea
Opis:
A two-dimensional numerical model was used for a simulation of vertical average longshore currents generated by both wind friction and wind-wave action in the nearshore zone. The modelling domain includes the southern part of the Baltic Proper (all boundaries were closed). Wind, uniform in space and varying in time, was the only forcing in the model. The correlation coefficient higher than 0.8 was obtained by model calibration versus the field measurements of currents conducted at the Lubiatowo field station (southern Baltic) during about 1.5 months in 2006. Comparative simulations of total currents including both wind-induced drift and wave components, and of total currents including only a wind-induced drift component, showed that the input of the drift component into currents in the nearshore zone is greater than commonly believed. Wind-induced drift strongly dominates outside the zone of wave transformation, and its input into the total resulting currents remains noticeable even in a zone between the shoreline and the depth of the first wave breaking. Thus, wind-induced drift constitutes up to 50% of the resulting longshore currents for longshore winds and no less than 20% of the longshore component of currents for winds at 45 degrees to the longshore direction.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2012, 59, 1-2; 37-48
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Application of neural networks to the prediction of significant wave height at selected locations on the Baltic Sea
Autorzy:
Paplińska-Swerpel, B.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/240964.pdf
Data publikacji:
2006
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
sea wave forecast
neural networks
sea waves
Baltic Sea
Opis:
This paper describes the application of methodology based on the artificial neural network technique to make short-term wave forecasts. The neural network model is used to predict significant wave height at a selected location on the Baltic Sea based on wave and/or wind data at ten points scattered on the sea. High quality hindcast data were used in the process of developing the forecast methodology. The data originated from the WAM4 wave model. The results show that the neural network technique allowed significant wave height to be predicted accurately. The agreement obtained by a comparison with a testing data set was sufficiently good to confirm the effectiveness of this approach.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2006, 53, 3; 183-201
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Flow-induced Vibrations of a Horizontal Elastic Band Plate Submerged in Fluid of Finite Depth
Autorzy:
Szmidt, Kazimierz
Hedzielski, Benedykt
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241049.pdf
Data publikacji:
2019
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
elastic plate vibrations
surface waves
initial value problem
coupled problem
Opis:
The paper deals with forced vibrations of a horizontal thin elastic plate submerged in a semi-infinite layer of fluid of constant depth. The pressure load on this plate is induced by water waves arriving at the plate. This load is accompanied by pressure resulting from the motion of the plate. The plate and fluid motions depend on boundary conditions, and, in particular, the pressure load depends on the width of the gap between the plate and the bottom. In theoretical description of the phenomenon, we deal with a coupled problem of hydrodynamics in which the plate and fluid motions are coupled through boundary conditions at the plate surfaces. The main attention is focused on transient solutions of the problem, which correspond to fluid (and plate) motion starting from rest. In formulation of this problem, a linear theory of small deflections of the plate is employed. In order to calculate the fluid pressure, a solution of Laplace’s equation is constructed in a doubly connected fluid domain. With respect to the initial value problem considered, we confine our attention to a finite fluid domain. For a finite elapse of time, measured from the starting point, the solution in the finite fluid area mimics a solution within an infinite domain, inherent for wave propagation problems. Because of the complicated structure of boundary conditions of the coupled problem considered, the fluid domain is divided into sub-domains of simple geometry, and the solutions of the problem equations are constructed separately in each of these domains. Numerical experiments have been conducted to illustrate the formulation developed in this paper.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2019, 66, 3-4; 101-130
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Wyświetlanie 1-15 z 23

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