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Wyszukujesz frazę "beach" wg kryterium: Wszystkie pola


Wyświetlanie 1-5 z 5
Tytuł:
On the Description of Long Water Waves in Material Variables
Autorzy:
Szmidt, K.
Hedzielski, B.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241085.pdf
Data publikacji:
2009
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
long waves
shallow water
unsteady motion
sloping beach
Opis:
Shallow water equations formulated in material variables are presented in this paper. In the model considered, a three-dimensional physical problem is substituted by a two-dimensional one describing a transformation of long waves in water of variable depth. The latter is obtained by means of the assumption that a vertical column of water particles remains vertical during the entire motion of the fluid. Under the assumption of small, continuous variation of the water depth, the equations for gravity waves are derived through Hamilton's principle formulated in terms of the material coordinates. This formulation ensures the conservation of mechanical energy. The approximation depends on the wave parameters as well as on the bed bathymetry. The latter may influence a solution of the model decisively; thus, one should be careful in applying the description to complicated geometries of fluid domains encountered in engineering practice.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2009, 56, 1-2; 63-83
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Local Wave Energy Dissipation and Morphological Beach Characteristics along a Northernmost Segment of the Polish Coast
Autorzy:
Różyński, G.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241376.pdf
Data publikacji:
2018
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
coastal morphology
wave energy dissipation
equilibrium profiles
data-driven modelling
signal processing
Opis:
This paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the Polish coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) done in 2005 and 2011. Spaced every 500 m, they cover beach topography from dune/cliff crests to a seabed depth of about 15 m. They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract the monotonic component of beach topography and to perform a straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipation rates. Three characteristic dissipation patterns were identified: one associated with large nearshore bars and 2–3 zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beach profile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. An attempt was then made to interpret these types of wave energy dissipation in terms of local coastal morphological features and the underlying sedimentary characteristics.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2018, 65, 2; 91-108
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Calculation of Wave Run-up Height in South Baltic Sea: Case Study at Coastal Research Station at Lubiatowo, Poland
Autorzy:
Morawski, M.
Różyński, G.
Szmytkiewicz, P.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241434.pdf
Data publikacji:
2018
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
wave run-up
statistics
dissipative beach
Baltic Sea
Opis:
The paper presents recent investigations of beach run-up phenomena at the Coastal Research Station of the Institute of Hydro-Engineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences at Lubiatowo, Poland. The local beach is typical of open-sea coasts of the south Baltic Sea, featuring multiple longshore bars that form predominantly dissipative systems. Measurements were taken to verify the existing formulas for the run-up height, bearing in mind that they had been derived for entirely different, oceanic conditions. The results indicate that these formulations can be adapted to south Baltic Sea conditions. This however, will require significantly larger data sets, which we intend to obtain in the near future.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2018, 65, 3; 203-291
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Application of two coastal profile evolution models to Lubiatowo, Poland and La Barrosa, Spain
Autorzy:
O'Hare, T. J.
Ostrowski, R.
Emsley, S. M.
Huntley, D. A.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/240970.pdf
Data publikacji:
2006
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
beach
coastal profile model
hydrodynamics
sediment transport
Opis:
Two contrasting coastal profile models are applied to three bathymetries including a uniform gradient beach and natural profiles (multi-barred and multi-stepped) obtained from Lubiatowo, Poland and La Barrosa, Spain. The first model, developed at the Institute of Hydro-Engineering of the Polish Academy of Science (IBW PAN) (Poland), couples a quasi-3D model for nearshore hydrodynamics with a quasi-phase resolving sediment transport model which considers transport in the bed load, contact load and outer layers. The second model (PLYMPROF), developed at the University of Plymouth (UK), couples a relatively simple wave transformation model with a new abstracted description of cross-shore sediment transport beneath waves. A variety of model simulations are described, including simple runs with uniform wave forcing (up to 50 days in duration using PLYMPROF) and runs with parameterized wave forcing (wave height and wave period in deep water) for periods with one or two storm events (6-11 days total duration). Both models coped well with the different initial profiles and with uniform and time-varying wave conditions. The results of the simulations suggest that onshore-directed sediment transport in the shoaling and outer surf zones is dominant for the cases considered. Compared to the IBW PAN model, the PLYMPROF model results (using coefficients from a separate study of bar evolution at Duck, USA) show larger offshore-directed transport in the inner surf zone associated with return flow, with the overall sediment transport pattern located considerably closer to the shore. Alteration of a single coefficient in the PLYMPROF model shifts the predicted transport pattern seawards, but also results in enhanced offshore-directed transport. Despite differences in predicted cross-shore sediment transport the two models produced surprisingly similar trends in overall profile evolution suggesting that feedback between existing bathymetry and the sediment transport pattern may exert a major control on profile development. Results also suggested that bar migration patterns cannot be simply related to the occurrence or absence of storm conditions, but rather depend more subtly on the exact placement of wave breaking locations in relation to existing bars. Incorporation of tidal water level variations for La Barrosa produced small changes in model predictions, with tidal migration of the sediment flux pattern suppressing the development of bar morphology in line with the form of the observed profile.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2006, 53, 3; 235-266
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Condition of South-Eastern Baltic Sea Shores and Methods of Protecting Them
Autorzy:
Ostrowski, R.
Pruszak, Z.
Babakov, A.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241406.pdf
Data publikacji:
2014
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
South-Eastern Baltic coast
dynamics of cliffs and beach/dune shores
anthropogenic impacts
shore protection against erosion
Opis:
The paper describes lithodynamic and morphodynamic processes occurring in the main part of the south-eastern Baltic coastal area, namely on the sea shores from the Vistula mouth in the Gulf of Gdansk to the Lithuanian-Latvian border. The study area is subject to intensive natural coastal changes, as well as shore evolution caused by anthropogenic impacts at several locations. Methods of coastal protection against erosion and shore stabilization systems applied in the past and currently are described. The paper deals with the causes of the dynamics of beach/dune shores and cliffs. It presents the authors’ field observations of 2010-2013, as well as previously gained knowledge and the results of Polish, Russian and joint Polish-Russian field surveys.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2014, 61, 1-2; 17-37
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
    Wyświetlanie 1-5 z 5

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