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Tytuł:
Shallow-water wave energy dissipation in a multi-bar coastal zone
Autorzy:
Pruszak, Z.
Szmytkiewicz, P.
Ostrowski, R.
Skaja, M.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47959.pdf
Data publikacji:
2008
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
coastal region
energy dissipation
surf zone
Baltic Sea
wave parameter
wave motion
wave transformation
shallow water
coastal zone
offshore wave
Opis:
The paper presents the results of studies of wave transformation on a multi-bar cross-shore profile of the southern Baltic Sea. The field investigations of wave motion were carried out using an offshore wave buoy and string wave gauges at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station, Lubiatowo (Poland). These experimental results were used to validate statistical relationships between characteristic wave parameters in the coastal region and to assess wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. Asimple model for calculating the residual nearshore wave energy is proposed and tested versus the data collected in situ.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2008, 50, 1; 43-58
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Climate of long internal waves and resuspension on the coastal shelf
Autorzy:
Bogucki, D.J.
Redekopp, L.G.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47452.pdf
Data publikacji:
2008
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
boundary layer
internal wave
turbulence
resuspension
long internal wave
internal solitary wave
coastal shelf
instability
climate
coastal area
Opis:
Observations of the shelf environment rarely associate internal solitary waves (ISWs) with the impact of their passage. An experiment observed during the Coastal Mixing and Optics 1996( CMO ’96), a sequence of long internal waves on a coastal shelf is reported, including both mode-1 and mode-2 waves, together with evidence related to the interaction of propagating ISWs and the benthic boundary layer. The observed ISW dynamics is shown to present a repetitive pattern or ‘climate cycle’. The ISW-associated benthic signature described here occurs frequently (at least once a day) in the CMO ’96coastal area and suggests that ISWs under calm, summer-like conditions may have a decisive influence on the fate of near-bottom pollutants or biological processes in shelf regions.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2008, 50, 1; 5-21
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Nonlinear ship wake waves as a model of rogue waves and a source of danger to the coastal environment: a review
Autorzy:
Soomere, T.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48354.pdf
Data publikacji:
2006
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
Sopot
nonlinear ship
wave
extreme wave
shallow water wave
conference
Baltic Sea
marine ecosystem
coastal environment
ship traffic
speed ship
coastal area
Opis:
A substantial part of the energy of wake waves from high-speed ships sailing in shallow water is concentrated in nonlinear components which at times have a solitonic nature. Recent results of investigations into solitonic wave interactions within the framework of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation and their implications for rogue wave theory are reviewed. A surface elevation four times as high as the counterparts occurs if the properties of the interacting waves are specifically balanced. The slope of the water surface may increase eightfold. The resulting structure may persist for a long time. Nonlinear wake components may exert a considerable influence on the marine ecosystem in coastal areas.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2006, 48, S
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Modelling longshore sediment transport under asymmetric waves
Autorzy:
Ostrowski, R.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/49027.pdf
Data publikacji:
2006
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
coastal zone
hydrodynamic condition
sandy sediment
wave-current interaction
sediment transport
wave asymmetry
Opis:
Two wave theories are applied in calculations of longshore sediment transport rates: the second Stokes approximation and the cnoidal theory. These approaches are used to model sand motion in nearshore locations beyond and within the surf zone. Wave-current interaction in the nearbed layer and bed shear stresses are solved using a momentum integral method, whereas sediment transport is described by a three-layer model encompassing bedload, contact load and suspended load. Computational results for asymmetric waves are compared with the results obtained using linear wave theory and the conventional sediment transport models of Bailard (1981), Bijker (1971) and Van Rijn (1993).
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2006, 48, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Longshore sediment transport at Golden Sands (Bulgaria)
Autorzy:
Nikolov, H.
Trifonova, E.
Cherneva, Z.
Ostrowski, R.
Skaja, M.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48714.pdf
Data publikacji:
2006
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
coastal zone
wave refraction
wave diffraction
Black Sea
sandy beach
sediment transport
Golden Sands
Bulgaria
Opis:
The paper presents the results of studies on the qualitative and quantitative features of the littoral drift at Golden Sands (Bulgaria), carried out jointly by Polish and Bulgarian researchers. The mathematical modelling of physical coastal processes took wave transformation (wave diffraction and refraction; the effects of shoaling and wave breaking) and longshore sediment transport into account. The computations were carried out for the mean statistical annual wave climate, determined on the basis of IO BAS wave data, simulated using the WAM method from long-term Black Sea wind data. The results of sediment transport computations clearly show that its direction off the Golden Sands shore is from north to south.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2006, 48, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Experimental study of hydraulic response of smooth submerged breakwaters to irregular waves
Autorzy:
Mahmoudof, S.M.
Hajivalie, F.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2078821.pdf
Data publikacji:
2021
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
submerged breakwater
irregular wave
experimental study
transmission
reflection
coastal area
Opis:
This paper presents the results of a laboratory experiment on transmission, reflection, and dissipation of irregular waves over smooth impermeable submerged breakwaters. Experiments included 75 JONSWAP-based irregular waves with five different wave characteristics generated at three water depths in a 2D wave flume. The investigated breakwater sections were three rectangular breakwaters with different widths, a toothed rectangular breakwater, and a trapezoidal breakwater with a slope of 1:2. A new comprehensive dimensionless parameter (β) was proposed representing both wave hydrodynamic and breakwater geometry characteristics. This parameter could be employed as a suitable descriptive option to make an accurate estimate of the hydraulic performances of submerged breakwaters. The β parameter is composed of four conventional simple dimensionless variables. However, the results revealed that the relative submergence depth significantly affects the hydraulic responses of submerged breakwaters. The transmission, reflection and dissipation of waves show a logarithmic growth, a logarithmic reduction, and a quadratic decreasing trend against the increasing of β parameter, respectively. The verifications of results revealed the high efficiency of β parameter for data reported by Carevic et al. (2013) with R2 = 0.88 and high agreement with predictions made by Van der Meer et al. (2005) formulation with R2 = 0.93.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2021, 63, 4; 448-462
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Groundwater flow due to a nonlinear wave set-up on a permeable beach
Autorzy:
Przyborska, A.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47606.pdf
Data publikacji:
2014
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
pore pressure
groundwater circulation
nonlinear wave
water flow
beach sand
shallow water
wave dynamics
coastal zone
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2014, 56, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Modelling nearshore hydrodynamics and circulation under the impact of high waves at the coast of Varkiza in Saronic-Athens Gulf
Autorzy:
Belibassakis, K.A.
Karathanasi, F.E.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47934.pdf
Data publikacji:
2017
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
sediment transport
shoreline
modelling
hydrodynamics
Saronic Gulf
coastal zone
wind
wave
Opis:
A plethora of physical parameters, such as hydro-, litho- and morpho-dynamic char- acteristics, are essential for understanding the response of coastal systems to intense sea states in terms of sediment transport and shoreline evolution. Nowadays, numerical models are extensively applied to meet the above needs and support coastal planning and management. In the present work, a 2DH dynamic modelling system is used for simulating the hydrodynamic and meteorological/ oceanographic characteristics of the Saronic Gulf, in order to examine circulation patterns and predict sediment transport phenomena under high wave conditions at the coast of Varkiza, a sandy beach in the southern Attica, Greece. Time series of wind and wave data were used as input at the open boundaries of the model domain while the model was calibrated and validated through (linear and directional) statistical measures with respect to in situ wave measurements, since there was lack of hydrodynamic data at the site of interest.The simulation period of the model was between January 3 and February 19, 2013, with consecutive high waves in-between. The good agreement of the numerical results from the wave and hydrodynamic model with in situ measurements confirmed the suitability of the model for the support of sediment transport rates at Varkiza coastal segment. Model results reveal that there is a counter-clockwise water circulation during high waves that contribute to the erosion of the examined beach, which is also confirmed by independent field measurements.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2017, 59, 3
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
An integrated wave modelling framework for extreme and rare events for climate change in coastal areas – the case of Rethymno, Crete
Autorzy:
Tsoukala, V.K.
Chondros, M.
Kapelonis, Z.G.
Martzikos, N.
Lykou, A.
Belibassakis, K.
Makropoulos, C.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48719.pdf
Data publikacji:
2016
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
coastal area
climate change
Crete
flooding
wave
storm
modelling
numerical model
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2016, 58, 2
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Some probabilistic properties of surf parameter
Autorzy:
Myrhaug, D.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2079192.pdf
Data publikacji:
2020
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
probabilistic property
surf parameter
wave statistics
continental shelf
coastal zone
Norway
Opis:
This article is supplementary to Myrhaug (2018) and presents some probabilistic properties of the surf parameter for individual waves and the spectral surf parameter for sea states by using distributions based on data from the Norwegian continental shelf. The average statistical features given by the mean value and the standard deviation of the two surf parameters are considered. Examples of results for the surf parameter are provided for a Phillips spectrum and a family of JONSWAP spectra for wind sea, and for sea states using a joint frequency table of significant wave height and mean zero-crossing wave period for combined wind sea and swell. The spectral surf parameter results are obtained by using a joint distribution of significant wave height and spectral surf parameter, and the mean statistical properties are given for joint frequency tables of significant wave height and mean zero-crossing wave period from three deep water locations on the Norwegian continental shelf. It is also demonstrated how the results can be applied to calculate the vertical wave runup elevation for breaking waves.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2020, 62, 3; 395-401
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Influence of the climatic variations in the wind waves parameters on the alongshore sediment transport
Autorzy:
Divinsky, B.V.
Kosyan, R.D.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2079275.pdf
Data publikacji:
2020
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
climate variability
wind wave
coastal zone
sediment transport
numerical modelling
Black Sea
Opis:
The purpose of this work was to analyze the influence of climatic variability of wind waves and swell parameters in the coastal zone on the sediment transport and to assess the contribution of the swell to the formation of alongshore fluxes. The object of research is the Anapa bay-bar (the Black Sea). Mathematical modeling has shown that in the Anapa bay-bar area the average annual wind waves and swell powers have significant interannual variability. For the period from 1979 to 2017, in the southern part of the bay-bar, there was a statistically significant decrease in the share of swell in the alongshore transport, directed from NW to SE, in the central part – an increase in the contribution of swell to the total sediment flow from SE to NW, in the northern part – probable increase in flows to NW and decrease – to SE. Such a dynamic is consistent, in general, with experimental observations of the processes of erosion and accumulation of beach-forming material along the Anapa bay-bar coastline. A separate description of the bottom sediment fluxes under the influence of wind waves and swell made it possible to explain the fluctuations of the coastline over a climatic period.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2020, 62, 2; 190-199
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Long period oscillations in the longshore current on a sandy, barred coast investigated with singular spectrum analysis
Autorzy:
Kaczmarek, J.
Rozynski, G.
Pruszak, Z.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47837.pdf
Data publikacji:
2005
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
beach process
nearshore region
longshore current
coastal process
infragravity wave
singular spectrum analysis
Opis:
The presence of infragravity waves in nearshore regions can be sought in the records of both water levels and wave-driven longshore currents. For this reason, time series of such currents in close proximity to the shoreline were analysed using Singular Spectrum Analysis (SSA). Simultaneously, the results obtained with this method were confronted with the output of Discrete Wavelet Transform (DWT), which had previously been applied to this data. The records of longshore currents were collected on a daily basis during field experiments in the autumns of 2002 and 2003 with sampling rates of 3 Hz and 0.5 Hz. This produced a large data set that allowed for the use of an advanced signal processing technique, capable of extracting patterns characteristic of low-, medium- and high-frequency bands. It provided similar evidence to that produced by DWT for the existence of infragravity waves along a dissipative coast with multiple bars. The study also demonstrated the utility of SSA for studies on coastal hydrodynamics. It also showed up the better user-friendliness of DWT in terms of pattern extraction and interpretation. On the other hand, SSA demonstrated a higher precision of pattern extraction once the DWT output was known, which is a manifestation of the synergy of the two methods when applied jointly.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2005, 47, 1
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Driving forces of sandy sediment transport beyond the surf zone
Autorzy:
Stella, M.
Ostrowski, R.
Szmytkiewicz, P.
Kapinski, J.
Marcinkowski, T.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47878.pdf
Data publikacji:
2019
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
sandy sediment
sediment transport
surf zone
wave-current interaction
roughness
coastal zone
Baltic Sea
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2019, 61, 1
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Variability and correlations of shoreline and dunes on the Southern Baltic coast (CRS Lubiatowo, Poland)
Autorzy:
Pruszak, Z.
Ostrowski, R.
Schonhofer, J.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48165.pdf
Data publikacji:
2011
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
variability
correlation
shoreline
dune
Baltic coast
Lubiatowo
Polska
field investigation
coastal zone
wave energy
Opis:
The paper analyses the results of field investigations into the evolution of the shoreline and dune toe positions in a multi-bar, dissipative coastal zone. The correlations between the changes in the shoreline and the dune toe range from −0.4 to 0.8. It is most often the case that the dune toe is stable while the shoreline moves. Consistent cross-shore migration is slightly more likely to happen than the divergent or convergent movements of both lines. Shoreline retreat and advance attain respective rates of 0.7 m day−1 and 0.4 m day−1. Deep-water wave energy of about 50 kJ m−1 constitutes the boundary between shore accumulation and erosion.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2011, 53, 1
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Combined impact of summer heat waves and coastal upwelling in the Baltic Sea
Autorzy:
Suursaar, U.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2079092.pdf
Data publikacji:
2020
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
global warming
heat wave
coastal upwelling
water temperature
salinity
satellite image
Finland Gulf
Baltic Sea
Opis:
Under warming climates, heat waves (HWs) have occurred in increasing intensity in Europe. Also, public interest towards HWs has considerably increased over the last decades. The paper discusses the manifestations of the summer 2014 HW and simultaneously occurring coastal upwelling (CU) events in the Gulf of Finland. Caused by an anticyclonic weather pattern and persisting easterly winds, CUs evolved along the southern coast of the Gulf in four episodes from June to August. Based on data from coastal weather stations, 115 days-long measurements with a Recording Doppler Current Profiler (RDCP) oceanographic complex and sea surface temperature (SST) satellite images, the partly opposing impacts of these events are analysed. Occurring on the background of a marine HW (up to 26°C), the CU-forced SST variations reached about 20 degrees. At the 10 m deep RDCP mooring location, a drop from 21.5 to 2.9°C occurred within 60 hours. Salinity varied between 3.6 and 6.2 and an alongshore coastal jet was observed; the statistically preferred westerly current frequently flowed against the wind. Locally, the cooling effect of the CUs occasionally mitigated the overheating effects by the HWs both in the sea and on the marine-land boundary. However, in the elongated channel-like Gulf of Finland, upwelling at one coast is usually paired with downwelling at the opposite coast, and simultaneously or subsequently occurring HWs and CUs effectively contribute to heat transfer from the atmosphere to the water mass. Rising extremes of HWs and rapid variations by CUs may put the ecosystems under increasing stress.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2020, 62, 4PA; 511-524
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Wyświetlanie 1-15 z 21

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