- Tytuł:
- Local Wave Energy Dissipation and Morphological Beach Characteristics along a Northernmost Segment of the Polish Coast
- Autorzy:
- Różyński, G.
- Powiązania:
- https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241376.pdf
- Data publikacji:
- 2018
- Wydawca:
- Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
- Tematy:
-
coastal morphology
wave energy dissipation
equilibrium profiles
data-driven modelling
signal processing - Opis:
- This paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the Polish coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) done in 2005 and 2011. Spaced every 500 m, they cover beach topography from dune/cliff crests to a seabed depth of about 15 m. They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract the monotonic component of beach topography and to perform a straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipation rates. Three characteristic dissipation patterns were identified: one associated with large nearshore bars and 2–3 zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beach profile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. An attempt was then made to interpret these types of wave energy dissipation in terms of local coastal morphological features and the underlying sedimentary characteristics.
- Źródło:
-
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2018, 65, 2; 91-108
1231-3726 - Pojawia się w:
- Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
- Dostawca treści:
- Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł