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Wyszukujesz frazę "sloping beach" wg kryterium: Temat


Wyświetlanie 1-2 z 2
Tytuł:
On the Description of Long Water Waves in Material Variables
Autorzy:
Szmidt, K.
Hedzielski, B.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241085.pdf
Data publikacji:
2009
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Tematy:
long waves
shallow water
unsteady motion
sloping beach
Opis:
Shallow water equations formulated in material variables are presented in this paper. In the model considered, a three-dimensional physical problem is substituted by a two-dimensional one describing a transformation of long waves in water of variable depth. The latter is obtained by means of the assumption that a vertical column of water particles remains vertical during the entire motion of the fluid. Under the assumption of small, continuous variation of the water depth, the equations for gravity waves are derived through Hamilton's principle formulated in terms of the material coordinates. This formulation ensures the conservation of mechanical energy. The approximation depends on the wave parameters as well as on the bed bathymetry. The latter may influence a solution of the model decisively; thus, one should be careful in applying the description to complicated geometries of fluid domains encountered in engineering practice.
Źródło:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics; 2009, 56, 1-2; 63-83
1231-3726
Pojawia się w:
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
On the transformation of long gravity waves on a sloping beach
Autorzy:
Szmidt, J.K.
Hedzielski, B.
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/49151.pdf
Data publikacji:
2010
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Tematy:
long wave
gravity wave
transformation
wave transformation
sloping beach
wave gauge
propagation
investigation
experimental measurement
Opis:
The transformation of long water waves arriving at a sloping beach is investigated. An approximate theory is presented for plane periodic waves propagating in water of non-uniform depth. The theoretical description of the phenomenon, based on certain kinematic assumptions, is formulated in the material variables, and the solution is constructed by applying the Hamilton variational principle. In order to assess the accuracy of the formulation and to learn more about long wave transformation, experimental measurements were carried out in a laboratory flume. In the experiments, a water wave, generated by a piston-type wave maker placed at one end of the flume, propagated towards a rigid inclined ramp installed at the other end of the flume. The wave transformation along the direction of its propagation was recorded by a set of wave gauges installed along the flume. The wave run- up on the sloping beach was measured with a special conductivity gauge placed alongside the ramp. Comparison of the theoretical results with experimental data indicates that the proposed theoretical formulation provides a good description of the main features of wave transformation behaviour over a sloping beach, except in the vicinity of the shore point, where some discrepancies occur.
Źródło:
Oceanologia; 2010, 52, 3; 363-389
0078-3234
Pojawia się w:
Oceanologia
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
    Wyświetlanie 1-2 z 2

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