Transition of the Ichijō Modoribashi (Bridge of Returns) It comes as no surprise that the Japanese ancient capital, Kyoto, world-famous for its centuries-long history and rich culture, is among the most visited cities in the country, enjoyed by both domestic and foreign tourists alike. Many of them come to Kyoto to experience the traditional culture of Japan, but recent years have seen the emergence of a new type of tourist – one that explores places connected with the “Other World” or the supernatural, a phenomenon known in Japanese as makai kankō or makai meguri. The purpose of this paper is to describe how Kyoto became a symbol of traditional Japanese culture through various local government policies, especially in the 19th century. It also shows that the recent trend of visiting the supernatural-related spots reflects how Kyoto was perceived, and how its image evolved during the 20th century. The paper focuses on one particular example of the Ichijō Modoribashi, a bridge believed to stand in the exact same place as when it was first built in the Heian period. By tracing the roots of legends concerning the bridge, one can understand how the image of this spot has changed, and how it is connected with certain events in history. Currently, the Ichijō Modoribashi is depicted as a place closely related to the Japanese legendary astrologer, Abe no Seimei, a popular character found in numerous Japanese novels, comic books, and movies. The sightseeing history of the Ichijō Modoribashi is discussed with reference to Miyako meisho zue (Pictorial Guide to Famous Places in Kyōto) published in 1780 by Akisato Ritō, in the earliest Japanese travel magazine, Tabi (1924-2012), and the most popular travel guide book in Japan, Rurubu (1984 -), issued by JTB Publishing.
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